Damn Right I've Got the Moves 5.8+
| 1,667 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Crusher Bartlett, Fran Bagenal, 1987 |
| Submitted By: | Barrett Cooper on Jan 19, 2003 |
| |
Jean Aschenbrenner by the fifth bolt on this beaut...
Add Photo Printer View
Description This is in the center of the leftmost wall on Spiney. The climb follows a noticable crack line up the main face. With good holds and footing all the way, the route is a good alternative to Cactus climbs like LaCholla Jackson.
Protection 7 bolts to anchors.
BETA PHOTO
| BETA PHOTO: Spiney Ridge - left. Sunday Pockets is renamed 20...
| A great climb.
| Myong says "Damn Right I've Got the Moves!"
| | |
| Comments on Damn Right I've Got the Moves |
|
By Ron Olsen From: Boulder, CO Oct 15, 2003 rating: 5.9-
| A beautiful and esthetic line; one of the best of its grade at Shelf. |
By Larry Shaw Sep 27, 2004 rating: 5.8+
| I really liked this route...good one for the grade or warmup. |
By Livia From: Colorado Springs, CO Jul 21, 2005
| Very nicely bolted for a newish 5.8+ leader. |
By Eddy Daly a.k.a. Two Bears Nov 10, 2005 rating: 5.9-
Gear Alert
| Was on this route 10-10-05. I was cleaning the route on the way down and the fourth bolt hanger came off in my hands. This is valuable pro, as it protects the crux. Jennifer, my belayer, saw the washer and nut fall as I passed the bolt on lead but thought they were pebbles. Nut, washer and hanger are now resting on a small but prominent ledge at the base of the climb (I didn't have a wrench). If you're headed to this area, please bring a wrench and reattach the hanger. This is a very sweet route at the grade. Cheers.Eddy |
By Gaar From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab Feb 20, 2007
| Good climb...Looks like the 2nd bolt is missing to prevent rope drag....IMO chop all the damn bolts and make it a trad climb like is should be!! |
By jarthur From: Westminster, CO Mar 23, 2008 rating: 5.9-
| Maybe I'm just a sport-junkie, but can you safely place gear in Shelf Road's friable limestone? Hmm, maybe that's why the first ascensionist decided to bolt this line. Great line. |
By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Apr 25, 2010 rating: 5.8+
| A solid climb. It feels right on for 8+. The 2nd bolt is still missing as of 3/24/2010 but you can place a pink or red tri-cam in a pocket and sling extend it for pro. Yes, I would trust trad gear on this route on Shelf's limestone. |
By Steve Zapoluch Sep 7, 2011
| Just there 9/4/2011, the second bolt is still missing. We swung over from Cheers (since we already were set up on TR for that at the same time) to clip in at the third bolt, since it was a bit runout to go from first to third. A more confident leader would probably skip this, though, since the route isn't all that difficult at that point. |
By Phence Jan 15, 2012 rating: 5.9
| Just climbed this on 01/14/2012. The hanger on the second bolt is missing, making it a bit sketchy for 5.8 leaders. As for the rope drag issue, a long draw will solve it. I'll come with a hanger next time I'm there in case someone doesn't beat me to it. Fun warm-up for sure. |
By William Mondragon From: Del Norte Colorado Feb 23, 2012
| I don't think there ever should have been that second bolt, unless you're into z-clipping. A good 5.8 though, not gimme. |
By Andrew Mayer Apr 8, 2012
| As of 4/7/12, the hanger on the 2nd bolt is still missing but, in my mind, is completely unnecessary. You can clip the 3rd bolt once you are standing on the prominent ledge where the 2nd bolt in located. Great climb. Felt more like 9- to me but was at the end of a long day, so I was probably just tired. |
By Joel Weinstein From: Boulder, CO May 20, 2012
| Second bolt is still missing, but it is not needed at all. Not remotely scary or dangerous. |
|