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Damfino Canyon
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Damfidont 
Damfino Spire 

Damfino Spire 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 450', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Glen Rink, Tim Toula
Season: spring/fall
Page Views: 518
Submitted By: markguycan on Jun 4, 2010
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Damfino

Description 

P1- thin hands 5.10- to choss to ledge with "bad bolts"
P2- Enduro OW 5.10+ chickenwing/hand stack or lieback 150ft or so to some truly bad rusty button head bolts at the notch. I give this 5.11- for the endurance factor.
P3- climb choss to tunnel thru to easy chimney to a spectacular summit.


Location 

hike up the main drainage for 15min the turn left up the side drainage to Damfino Cyn, continue boulder hopping for 30min or so til you are below the spire then thrash and scramble to the base.


Protection 

single set small stuff to #3 camalot then dbl #4, trpl #4.5 and old sized #5. 2 ropes to descend.



Photos of Damfino Spire Slideshow Add Photo
on the enduro 2nd pitch. This is what it's all about!
BETA PHOTO: on the enduro 2nd pitch. This is what it's all abo...
Comments on Damfino Spire Add Comment
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By Pindryc Milan
Feb 22, 2012

Isn't the correct name "Dam If I Know" (DAMIFIKNOW) as is the bike trail?

By JacobD
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 27, 2012

So are the bolts on this bad because they are placed badly, or because the rock is just that bad? I really want to do this climb, and would be willing to replace the anchors if it's that simple...

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 27, 2012

Mark's quotation marks around Bad Bolts may imply they are Bandito hangers. If that's the case, you might want to be ready with a hand drill.

By markguycan
From: Wellington NZ
Oct 14, 2012

the "bad" bandito bolts are actually pretty good. the rusty button-heads up higher need to be replaced though. On the bright side- you can now skip those upper anchors and rap down on bomber 1/2" x 5"bolts from the summit -down Damfidont. PindrycMilan- the name is the same as the FS sign that used to mark the trail before someone decided to take it home.

By Ryan Z
Apr 16, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Does anyone have information on the year this route was F/A'd. Or any idea how many ascents it has seen?

By Ryan Z
5 days ago
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The approach to this climb is one to be reckoned with. Although I will say it was not as crazy as I had expected. The first pitch, I will take the liberty of naming "the smell good vertical bushwhack." You will understand when you climb it. The gear on P1 is fine if you are looking for it. The second pitch is around 100 or 120 feet but is really only 5.10- or maybe 5.10 O/W. The route gets 4 stars for this beautiful 2nd pitch. When relating this O/W to other 10+ O/W's I have climbed, it is not near as difficult. The last pitch is a very cool, easy, chimney. Have fun out there!

As a side note: Do yourself a favor and bring (1) 70m rope and rappel down damfidont. We did it in 3 raps with the last rap being a real rope-stretcher.