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|Comments on Dam Wall||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Dec 7, 2005
|Oh my God I love this damn wall. And the rocks that are in it. If any did anything to this wall well I don't know what i do I go to it everyday and I will never forget the moments we have shared,|
By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 19, 2006
I remember reading about them somewhere...
what are the two harder routes to the right called?
why the fixed sling on the 1st bolt?
By James Garrett
Sep 23, 2006
1.DAMNED IF YOU DO and DAMNED IF YOU DON"T, both in the hard 5.11 to 5.12 range and run out. The eastern one is harder
2. Probably somebody bailed is my guess, these climbs are great places to collect booty biners...alot of bailin' going on up there, so if you are a hardman, you know where you can replenish your carabiner supply
Oct 24, 2006
James is right on question #1. Damned if You Don't is on the left (west) and is .11c, but its right on the edge of that sharp shale bed and pretty spooky. When I did it I pulled plenty of choss off so maybe it'll be cleaner for the next guys. I wonder if the falls are fine and it was just me that was a little freaked out, but that shale bed has loads of jagged stuff in it. Damned if You Do is on the right (east) and is supposed to be .12b. It has a hard start with a killer deadpoint or nice edgy static moves and then loads of steep movement. Its really fun, quick to get to and worth repeating.
Damned if You Do goes on and on but the hard climbing ends where it stops being so steep and there is often a quicklink or bail biner here. If you look high you'll see a second steeper part at the top of this fin which is where the anchors are. I did it to the top once and a 70m rope puts you into that shale bed for moderate downclimbing and the bail biner puts you back to the ground just left of where you started in the bushes. Its just how that formation tilts.
To answer question #2, you have to climb up onto that ledge to get to the first bolt of Damned if You Do and then its a little reachy to get to it(and that sling is way easier to clip). You really wouldn't want to fall there. Another reason not to be short.
"Redpoint" on utahclimbers.com established these routes and posted them at this link: utahclimbers.com/phpBB2/viewto...
Jun 15, 2010
|I found a light rack at this wall that someone left behind on Monday, June 14 2010. Please email me at mlmrink at msn dot com. I'd really like to get your gear back to you.|