Dallas Peak Rock Climbing
Maggy launching off the big drop.
Dallas Peak 13,809 feet
Dallas Peak is a Colorado Centennial Peak; in fact it is ranked as #100 by most lists. It has often been described as the hardest high mountain in Colorado, largely due to an imposing summit block that requires technical climbing. It has also been described as the longest approach hike to a 100 foot rock climb in the state. The large summit block has several routes to the top; all are 5th class and even the most experienced climbers will want a belay due to the looseness of the rock. Route finding difficulties, weather, technical pitches and altitude make Dallas a serious undertaking.
Dallas is northwest of Telluride near Mount Sneffels. Travelling into Telluride on Colorado 145, keep a sharp eye out for the Mill Creek Road to the left (north). This road is approximatley 1.2 miles outside of town. Drive up the Mill Creek Road (passable with passenger cars) to the gate of the Telluride water supply. Camping is allowed here but keep it low key and do not trespass into the water department property. The Deep Creek trail is north of the road and well signed.
Climbing Season For the San Juans area.
Weather station 2.7 miles from here
3 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Dallas Peak
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Dallas Peak:
Featured Route For Dallas Peak
East Face/Dallas Peak 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a CO
: Alpine Rock
: ... : Dallas Peak
The standard East Face route up Dallas actually starts on the South Face and winds its way around the lower mountain to the right. A very explicit route description is available in Gerry Roach's "Colorado Thirteeners" book. Highly recommended is the variation Roach calls "Stan's Shortcut". Bushwack through the woods following Mill Creek and pass the beautiful waterfall on the right (east) side. Many parties take the shortcut on the way up and follow the trail variation on the way down. A tw...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
BETA PHOTO: Dallas Peak at sunset, December, 2012.
Dallas Peak from Sneffels Highline Trail.
BETA PHOTO: Winter ascent, anyone? Taken December, 2012.
South Face of Dallas Peak's summit block.
Looking west from the summit. Notice the imposing ...
From: the Mountains
Nov 20, 2013
Is it possible to traverse across the summit of Dallas east to west, or vice versa? Anybody done that?
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2014
I tried to climb it via the west ridge once and encountered some of the loosest rock I had ever seen. Giant stacks of dinner plates ready to plummet at the slightest touch.