Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Renaissance Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Consequences 
Dakota 
Decisions 
Don Quixote 
Pharoah's Child 
Renaissance Wall 
Trials of Copernicus (P1) 

Dakota 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Tommy Caldwell, 1995
Page Views: 840
Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on May 4, 2009
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Ben Randolph gets his MEGA-TECH on.

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Reach up to a sizable jug horn, right off the ground to begin. Either stick clip or go-go-gadget clipping arm to prevent a ground fall. The first few bolts of climbing is low angle, and very technical, not to mention that a number of foot holds (and hand holds) are disintegrating. However, a few fun moves through this section get you to a restful stance and the rock becomes far better. Follow a faded seem through ultra technical movement, clipping bolts and placing a small nut towards the top. The seem eventually opens up and jugs, slopers lead to the chains.

This route is a technicians dream line; sequential, demanding and beta-intensive. The crux is cryptic, to say the least. It was previously considered 13a (by Tommy), but a couple holds have broken since and definitely warrants a capital B.


Location 

Right side of Renaissance Wall as you approach it. To the left of Hooligan (13c).


Protection 

16 quickdraws and bring a couple small nuts.



Comments on Dakota Add Comment
Show which comments
By RandyFarris
Aug 26, 2010

I bolted and worked this route in 1993 and climbed all of it except for the 5 ft at the thin seam. Just could not do one move. Anyway, we had our first child that year, "Ryan Dakota", so I did not get back to it for a while, and Mike Caldwell called and said Tommy needed some exercise, so I said go for it. Kudos, Tommy, thanks for not changing the name. Glade to see people are climbing it.