|Type:||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50', Grade V|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Season:||June through Fall|
|Submitted By:||ARob on Jun 28, 2008|
|Comments on DaKind||Add Comment|
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From: Vancouver, WA
Jul 15, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
With no stick clip or crash pad available, my climbing partner elected to climb the face up and to the right of the alcove and then traverse back to the left to clip to the bolt above the crux. He estimated this "alternate start" at about 5.8. It protected well with trad gear. This approach then allows one to come back down from that point and attempt the crux of the true start with the first bolt clipped, or to continue on to the top to set a top rope.
Safety rating may be more like PG13 without the first bolt clipped or some other pro placed prior to attempting the crux.