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Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brazier Food 
Chili Dog 
Double Delight 
Faith Healer 
Five Tree 
Foot Massage, The 
Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family) 
Gomez 
Leap Erickson 
Leap of Faith 
Leap Year Flake 
Look Before You Leap 
Lurch 
Mojus (aka Slushie), The 
Norm 
Pat Adams Dihedral 
Snake Oil 
Tofutti 
Toxic Waltz 

Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side 


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Page Views: 11,307
Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 20, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: DQ Wall - Left Side photo/topo, Joshua Tree NP

A...

Description 

Although the left side of the Dairy Queen Wall shares the same name as the more popular right side, and the two portions are connected, most people are wholly unfamiliar with this lesser visited side. That's too bad as there are some really good routes on this side and the approach is actually easier as well.

The right side of the DQ Wall is characterized by juggy moderate cracks (hence it's popularity) while the left side has smoother greyish rock with the odd black knob. Some of the outstanding routes here include Leap Year Flake (5.7) a unique wafer-thin undercling flake, Get Right Or Get Left (5.9) a hundred foot crack with lots of variety, Norm (5.10a) a fun and well-protected face/arete, Pat Adams Dihedral (5.11b/c) a demanding and overhanging corner and Toxic Waltz (5.12a) a steep and exposed arete to face.


Getting There 

Park as for Hemingway Buttress, in the large, paved parking area and follow the signed Access Fund trail towards Hemingway and then cut left to near the base of the wall. Alternately, one can park as for Playhouse Rock, near the Milepost, and follow the marked trail to Playhouse and then cut right to reach the same point near the base of the wall. Once at the base a bit of scrambling is required to access the base of the wall proper; if you hit it right you should come in right at the base of Norm.


19 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',4],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',4],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side:
Leap Year Flake   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Lurch   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family)   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Norm   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Leap Erickson   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Pat Adams Dihedral   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side

Featured Route For Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side
David getting ready to turn the roof on the sustained PA's dihedral.

Pat Adams Dihedral 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Dairy Queen Wall - Left Sid...
This is another neglected classic which is found on the left side of the Dairy Queen Wall. Once at the base of the cliff climb the excellent Leap Year Flake or Leap Erickson as an approach pitch. Once atop these routes you'll be under a large overhang capping a right facing corner which is the route.The undercling/layback just off the start is the crux, and after the first 30 feet of climbing, you have to go up and around the roof which is easier, but a bit scary. An excellent stopper...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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The left side of the Dairy Queen Wall as seen from the desert floor.
BETA PHOTO: The left side of the Dairy Queen Wall as seen from...
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By Bo Johnston
Mar 7, 2005

What is the bolted line to the left of Addams Family? The Vogel guide shows Slushie 5.10b to a two bolt anchor half way up the slab. I saw bolts but they continue all the way to the top and there is no bolted belay half way... The upper section looks harder than 10b?

By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 7, 2005

The route in question is called The Mojus (aka Slushie), is rated 5.10c and is already in the route database. The bolts have been replaced and the superfluous belay removed; this route can easily be done in a single pitch.