Daily Dick Dose
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|Some areas require a guide.|
Start with both hands on the rail.
Normal Beta: Throw your left foot on a small sharp edge on a vertical section of rock. Throw your left hand out to catch the crimp half way between the starting hold and the big undercling. Match feet and backstep, throw across for the jug undercling. As you swing out make sure to keep the landing gear up or you will dab.
Shorty Beta: Start with both hands and possibly a healhook on the rail. Move out left to a small crimp gaston and rise off of your right heal to the crimp half way between the starting rail and the jug undercling with your right hand. Match feet and go left to a pinch near the undercling then into the undercling itself with your right hand.
Once in the undercling step on the edge and cross your right hand over to a hold above the lip. Toehook in the undercling and make a couple of moves up the face. then step out and top out.
On the left side of the low roof that you walk by on your way to the Trac II boulder. Starting off of a low somewhat sloping rail near the back of the roof.
The landing is a bit wierd, there is a deep channel that runs beneth the problem so while it is difficult to keep your feet from hitting in the first place it is still a good idea to fold a pad in half to fill this channel then lay another pad over the top to flatten everything out.
BETA PHOTO: This is the short person beta for the start.
Me flashing the classic Daily Dick Dose. Amazing p...
From: Denver, CO
Oct 28, 2008
While this one only has two hard moves, and the crux might be keeping you feet off the ground on the throw to the monstrous undercling, it is alot of fun!
Also I think your suppose to start on the same starting rail for the heal hook beta as well.
By Russ Walling
Oct 28, 2008
I think the FA on this was Jim Karn in something like 1986.
Jul 31, 2015
By far my favourite climb in Hueco! I love the right heel hook start, though if you're on the stronger lock-off side, a left drop knee is probably easier for you.
Definitely watch out for the dab when going to the undercling. While working the beta, I kept my core tight. But on my first send, I lost it and my feet came off.