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Daily Diatribe 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,579
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
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Description 

This climbs the crack on the Teflon's face. This face is on the east face of Challenge, about 100 yds beyond the fork. It protects well and is a decent beginner trad route. It has finger and hand work, but the face is so good as not to force many jams. Climbing this climb is the easiest way to top-rope the Teflon's.

Protection 

2 chains atop, medium pieces/cams. Nothing tricky. It protects well.


Photos of Daily Diatribe Slideshow Add Photo
1)  Teflon Technique  2)  Touch of Teflon  3)  Dai...
BETA PHOTO: 1) Teflon Technique 2) Touch of Teflon 3) Dai...
The Teflons w/o lines
BETA PHOTO: The Teflons w/o lines

Comments on Daily Diatribe Add Comment
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By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Oct 20, 2006

I wouldn't truely recommend this climb. Kinda blah. Not to many good jams and tiny feet. Protected well, for the most part.
By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 23, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

ahh...the route isn't that bad...at least if you consider it a means to a TR on the harder lines to the left.

Plus, once you get sort of comfortable, you can cruise it in your tennies with only a piece or two...
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Oct 31, 2006

oh glen your glass must be half full
By Aimee Bates
May 24, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Probably not a good lead for a new 5.7 leader, as it feels harder than that. Esp considering the crux is the start. Mostly climbs the face.
By Finn the Human
From: The Land of Ooo
Aug 17, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Nice and easy, did it for my first ever trad climb. The start is pretty goofy, especially if you are on the shorter side. All in all a very safe and simple climb. Great if you wanna top rope Touch of Teflon just around the corner, as they share anchors. Careful not to get the rope caught when you moving over though!
By Michael Buchanan
Apr 27, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Bottom is the only interesting part of the climb. And the fact you can TR touch of teflon.
By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
May 29, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Weird start that goes directly into a brief crux. I found the best footholds near the crack. Just get a good hand and finger jam at the crux and work your feet up. This route lets up considerably after that brief crux section. It's not the coolest trad route but certainly a good crack for beginners!!
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Apr 18, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Did this as my first trad lead. Honestly only did it to TR Touch of Teflon. Because I did it as my first trad lead it is memorable, but the route itself was lack luster. The beginning was fun, however.
By Bianca Rich
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 7, 2014

When climbing this last week I grabbed some extremely large and loose holds, so loose I didn't dare use them. Use caution, it would be a shame if they went down on your belayer!!
By Steve Duncan
Jul 25, 2014

There's a pocket you can slot a small nut to protect the wierd starting move. Big loose block at the top of the crack - don't use it.