|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 120'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]|
|FA:||Bill Robins, Skeeter Malinski, 1987|
|Submitted By:||Nathan Fisher on Sep 18, 2005|
|On private land. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Daffy's Shaft||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Lee Gitlin
Sep 19, 2005
|Placing pro on this route can lead to a drag-inducing zig-zag, so be sure to have runners at the ready. The first bolt was a considerate placement, not too high and protecting some cruxy slab work. A chickenhead unlocks the roof sequence, which protects well. The route is runout if you go direct from the crack at right to the pin. (you can elect to go left from the crack and get some more pro below the crux). Maybe it was just poor technique, but I'm 6' and had to slap at the ledge above the final crux.|
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 5, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hard for 10a. The bottom slab moves are about Fin Arete-hard. Dig out those placements in the dirty crack on your way to the 2nd bolt, they're under there. Sling the mahogany above the roof super long and run it out on the easy slab.
The upper section is really good, steep and insecure but protects well with bomber small nuts. The very last move is the cherry.
Gear: small nuts, small cams (down to purple C3) to .4 and a #2 and a #3. Assloads of long runners.