Pitch 1: Climb low-angle crack up the west skyline arete until the rock steepens below a roof. The roof protects with a small TCU or a #4 Trango Ballnut. Pull the roof on a flared hand-jam and make easy moves to the bottom of the headwall (110 feet).
Pitch 2: Climb 5.9 face past two bolts to the summit (30 feet).
Follow the Sun Tower trail and look for signs for the Beehive Formation. The pinnacle is ~300 yards east of the Upper Sun Tower.
Standard rack plus #4 Ballnut or small TCU for roof, 2 bolts. Rap 90 feet to the northwest from two bolt anchor.
|By Jeremy Werlin|
May 17, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Maybe I was in the wrong spot at the roof (don't think so), but this thing totally shut me down and I ended up aiding through. I've flashed (for example) Renaissance Roof 10d. so I don't think I'm a total punter, but. . . . a #0.5 Camalot protected it well--no Ballnut on my rack.
The face up above was cool.
|By Alex Garhart|
May 18, 2010
This thing is stiff, but it is Unaweep. Not sure where the 0.5 BD would have gone in the roof. This route is a reachy one move wonder.
|By rick gardiner|
From: Grand Junction, CO,
May 30, 2010
Easily done in one pitch.
|By Jesse Zacher|
From: Grand Junction, Co
Jul 26, 2010
Rap bolts have been replaced. Look over the edge on the side closest to buttress behind the pinnacle to see two rap hangers above the ledge you step down to. Careful of loose rock when you pull the rope.... Courtesy of the ASCA.