Daedulus Direct 5.11c/d PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c/d [details] |
| FA: | Dan Hare et al. (?) |
| Submitted By: | slim on Sep 15, 2008 |
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Description A good, varied route at the far right side of the traversing mid-height ledge of the Bell Buttress.
Start up a left-facing dihedral in a slight alcove and be sure to get the best gear you can get and as high as you can get it (small TCU/Alien or possibly large RP). Climb above this into an awkward mantel over a small roof and into the dihedral above (9R, have an attentive belayer as blowing this could send you to craterville).
After you get established in the dihedral, head upwards on slightly awkward jamming and laybacking. Supposedly you can traverse rightwards at 10R somewhere in here, but I didn't see where that might be. As the crack peters out, head up and slightly right on some pretty non-positive lumps through 2 good bolts to a ledge and gear belay. This is really good climbing, and felt extremely insecure. You can also try to eek your way to the right into the crack system, but it isn't much easier.
From this ledge, the easiest way to get off is to climb another long 4th class/ easy 5th class pitch to the top and then hike forward (south), and then right (west), down an easy gully. Don't get lured into going down into a hanging gully, this could get hairy! After you have descended about 150 feet, keep your eyes open for an easy break to the right (skier's right, eastward) which will take you along a ledge to the base of the route.
Location Traverse/scramble to the right, past Cosmosis, past the exposed chimney gap, past Arms Bazaar, tunnel through the boulder, and walk about 30 to 50 feet. The line is pretty obvious in a slight alcove with a scalloped, left-facing dihedral.
Protection Varied rack from small cams and RPs to #1 Camalot. #2 or #3 Camalot optional and possibly helpful.
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