Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
Climb up and right for an easy traverse pitch to the large ledge and belay at tree or right under crack systems.
Start as for Icarus but at the double dihedral intersection, go left up the large corner system. Climb this easily and when it ends a fun hand and finger crack cruised up the face for 30 more feet to a large tree on the start of a messy ledge/ramp system. This is a 200+ foot pitch so some easy simul-climbing will need to be done.
The next pitch goes straight up cracks to the summit, or you can do what we did which is go right and follow the easy ledge/ramp to where it intersects the sharp arete finish to The Yellow Spur and Icarus. Head straight up this exposed arete with some runout to the top.
Descend by straddling the sharp arete that leads down to the Dirty Deed saddle, then downclimb the east slab decent or rappel. Fun cruiser climb that we did for a summit sunset. Had to hurry down the east slabs to beat the dark.
Richard Rossiter did not do the first ascent of this route! This was a common route and a variation to the Dirty Deed. Just read Pat Ament's High Over Boulder or Jim Erickson's guidebook, and you will find out that this route was well established before 1981!! I soloed this on a regular basis in the mid 1970s, and I know that I am not the first person to do so....
Per the 1961 Dornan guide (Eldorado's first guide): "The Dirty Deed, Grade 5, easy. This route starts in the chimney 150 ft. north of the Yellow Spur. Climb up the crack on the right one lead to a large ledge. Traverse right until it is possible to diagonal up a face south of a gully. The final section of this face is easiest by the south ridge. The route finishes up the Yellow Spur summit."
High Over Boulder, First Edition 1967: "The Dirty Deed. I, 5.5. First ascent in 1959 by Charles Alexander and Dean Moore. This route begins in the prominent chimney about 100 feet north of the start of the Yellow Spur. The first lead goes 150 feet up the chimney to a belay ledge near a tree. Scramble right (south) along a ledge. Reach the base of another chimney-crack system. Instead of going up the chimney-crack system, work out onto the high angle slab on the right. Two long leads will take the party to the top of Tower 1."
The 1970 second edition of High Over Boulder amended the description to include this: "As an alternative one may avoid these last two leads by staying in the crack (gully) system to left."
Jim Erickson's 1980 Rocky Heights guide describes the route as going up the gully to the notch left of the T1 summit, but added "There are several more difficult (5.5 to 5.8) choices on the smooth face near the summit that may be taken as desired."
This is a easy route, but fun. Must do the last pitch. The finger, slash hands is awesome. From the base of this wall, you can easily do this route in 3 long pitches, although--it does help if you have a double rope system. Have fun!