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(9) New School Wall
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Dad's Nuts T 
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Dad's Nuts 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Karl & Martin Seidenschmid ~ 5/08
Page Views: 1,041
Submitted By: Dustin Brubaker on May 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Reach large belay ledge, climbing right from 2nd bolt of 'No Nuts' or direct, from protected bulging face at tree. Climbs up intimidating block & crack system, to top of wall.


Start same for 'No Nuts' or, shimmy straight up from tree, 10ft up & right (past bolt to gain ledge).


Gear to 3.5"

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By another Chad
Feb 6, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

The loose rock on this route is unnerving.

By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
May 25, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Not a bad route. Pretty stout for 5.9. Couple loose rocks, but mostly good. Protects well. For starting, best to start up No Nuts, and run it out to the anchors that start Dad's Nuts.
By Byron Marohn
From: Portland, OR
Aug 14, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Pretty good route, I'd give it 2.5 stars if I could. I didn't feel that it was any harder than nearby No Nuts (5.9).

You probably can't sew this route up with gear - there are good placements, but there's junk in between. A long, clean fall with gear below your feet awaits you at most of the harder sections (the route is overhung most of the way). Pretty safe, but a bit spooky.

There isn't much loose rock on this route any more. But there are gigantic blocks that I put cams behind... They're big enough that I doubt they'd move, but I was motivated not to fall.

Worth doing.

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