Dad's Day Off
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Climb the short dihedral just below the first bolt. At the first bolt, move out onto the face. Climb up through horizontal cracks and blank looking face sections, protecting with several small cams and a some bolts. Eventually you intersect the arete and gain a rest before a small roof on the left. Pull a hard move past the last bolt, and mantle to victory.
This is located to the far right on the cliff, on a slightly overhanging face just left of the Haywire
Bolts and small cams: a single set from 0 TCU to 4 TCU should do.
Jun 24, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
The rock is good and the climb is fun but feels heavily contrived, since it is easy to step over to Haywire at almost any point. I thought the business was the steep, blank corner at the start maybe that's where the 5.12 rating comes from? Definitely no 5.12 points if you don't lead that to start the route.