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 ADVANCED
Lincoln Creek Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cardo's Corner T 
Cramper T 
Dad's Day Off T 
Dean's Day Off T 
Haywire T 
Honest Abe T,S 
Landslide T 
Peruvian Flake T 
Sauerkraut T,S 

Dad's Day Off 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: N. Beidleman, A. Weiss
Page Views: 425
Submitted By: Matthew Seymour on Jun 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Climb the short dihedral just below the first bolt. At the first bolt, move out onto the face. Climb up through horizontal cracks and blank looking face sections, protecting with several small cams and a some bolts. Eventually you intersect the arete and gain a rest before a small roof on the left. Pull a hard move past the last bolt, and mantle to victory.

Location 

This is located to the far right on the cliff, on a slightly overhanging face just left of the Haywire dihedral.

Protection 

Bolts and small cams: a single set from 0 TCU to 4 TCU should do.


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By D-Storm
Jun 24, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The rock is good and the climb is fun but feels heavily contrived, since it is easy to step over to Haywire at almost any point. I thought the business was the steep, blank corner at the start maybe that's where the 5.12 rating comes from? Definitely no 5.12 points if you don't lead that to start the route.