Daddy Long Legs 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 160 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Bill Robins, Mark Bennet, 1985 |
| Submitted By: | kBobby on Jul 1, 2003 |
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DLLEF.
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Description This route climbs a seam in a slab about 100 feet right of the falls. On the left side of this slab is a bolted line (The River's Edge, 5.10b R **). Look for a seam. (1) Climb up this seam through a small roof, and past a few more pins/bolts at horizontal cracks. Use every available pro. Stop at the second tree and belay. From the lower tree, you can definitely top-rope if you set up some directionals. (2) On pitch two, climb up through the roof (5.9) or around it to the right (5.8), up through some bushy cracks to a 2-bolt anchor. The bolted line above is Evening Falls, 5.10a *. Descent: Rappel the route.
Protection Mostly small stuff on a standard rack
BETA PHOTO: first pitch of "daddy long legs" not as steep as i...
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| Comments on Daddy Long Legs |
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By Anonymous Coward May 23, 2005
| Did Evening falls years ago, and the crux was protected by an old leeper with a cracked hanger. Fun moves though. The crack above is great , a retro fitting of this route woould restore a great line to safe climbing. go do it. |
By superagave May 2, 2006
| Man, I love this climb! It's been years since I've done it, but I think that it is an LCC sleeper classic! |
By Nathan Fisher May 13, 2006 rating: 5.10a
| I also felt the roof crack was harder than 5.9-. |
By Stefani Day May 30, 2006
| I climbed this for the first time last week and thought it was a very fun route. However, I was a bit surprised by the width of the crack over the top of the bulge on the 2nd pitch. I was expecting a hand crack the whole way, but it's much wider (#8 Metolius size). I agree with the consensus that it's harder than 5.9-. |
By Polly Sep 2, 2006
| great route-the first pitch has some good slabby moves on it and is a bit run out between the manky pin and last bolt before the anchors. the second pitch crux was definitely harder than 5.9- for me; you have to make the move with most of your weight on your hands, and for me it was cupped hands. still, it's a really short move and the rest of the climb is like 5.6. super fun-needs more traffic. toproped the 10a bolted slab next to the first pitch- really fun- a must do if you have done the first pitch. |
By Leroy Fielding Sep 9, 2006
| Good route, tr'd the first pitch last night. Easy to walk up to the tree at the top of the first pitch, which also gives you easy access to the Rivers Edge anchors. When did the pin get replaced? I was kinda bummed to see the new bolt, sorta changes the character of he route. The pin was pretty bomber last year, at least more so than the first pin you encounter. There is another old pin maybe 5 ft above the bolt. If this pin gets pulled, please do not replace it with another bolt. If it does get pulled, try to pull it so natural protection can be used; unlike the other pin which didn't leave a pin scar when it was pulled/hammered/chipped out of place. |
By shawn Sep 29, 2006
| This is a great line that takes gear great. The runout section is not bad at all. Don't let the runout stop you from climbing this awsome route. This should see alot more traffic. |
By Sir Camsalot From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut Jul 1, 2008
| Keep his route 5.8 and skip the one-move-wonder-gruntfest on the second pitch. The 5.8 moves around the right of the roof are way better. |
By Ben Folsom Jul 1, 2008
| Both ways over the roof are pretty good, one is easier, and the other a bit more of a grunt, but both good. |
By triznuty From: Salt Lake City, UT Jul 30, 2009 rating: 5.9
| First pitch is amazing. Linkup with Evening Falls for a classic romp. |
By ddriver From: SLC Oct 3, 2012
| Based on the description here of 160' and Ruckman's topo showing an 80' first pitch, I took a single 70m for this. The second pitch (from the chains, not the tree ledge) is really about 120', so we did a short pull from the tree. Moving the first belay to the block right of the tree just makes too much sense to me. Seems the tree used to have slings? |
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Oct 4, 2012 rating: 5.9
| Yeah, RP, tree used to have slings (the tree below the roof used to be the end and anchor on the first pitch). Was there a two bolt anchor on the upper face of the first pitch? That thing has to go. Maybe someone already took care of it? You can rap down to River's Edge, too, and hit the ground from that anchor with a single 70 (maybe 60). |
By ddriver From: SLC Oct 10, 2012
| Yessir, two-bolt anchor on the face shortly after leaving the corner. One bolt and a pin above this belay before reaching the ledge. Seems out of place. Saw River's Edge anchors too late. Edit: Just did this last week so that belay is surely still there. |
By zoso Oct 10, 2012
| Chop chop. |
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