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Spray Wall
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Anger Management 
Becoming, The 
Dad Speaks Parley 
Dan Speaks Darrly 
Dark Arts, The 
Kerosene Milkshake 
Name Unknown 
Only Entertainment 
Outre Salvo 
Pagan Wisdom 
Randy Speaks Farsi 
Rapture 
Spew 
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Unsorted Routes:

Dad Speaks Parley 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ed Schmitt and Ben Schmitt
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 1,443
Submitted By: Ben Schmitt on Jun 15, 2008
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Micheal Lyon Photography. 5.10d.

Description 

Bolted and sent on Father's Day, this new route is a brilliant moderate addition to the Spray Wall. The route follows the right-facing dihedral left of Randy Speaks Farsi, and then busts out underclings, crimps, and the final juggy roof via three cruxes. It is recommended to stick clip the first bolt, as the slab crux right off the ground is tenuous, and there was no good place to put the bolt where it would not be in the way. Destined to be a classic....


Location 

On the right side of the Spray Wall amphitheatre, this is the 3rd route to the left of the edge of the wall. It follows the right-facing dihedral in the middle of the wall up increasinly overhanging climbing to a scoop, and then out the steep roof left of Randy Speaks Farsi.


Protection 

Five bolts to a chain anchor. There are biners at the top for easy lowering, don't steal them.



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By JasonT
Apr 16, 2010

Getting to the first bolt isn't the greatest climbing, but after that this really turns into a great climb. Nice job, guys.

By reesel
From: gunnison
Sep 29, 2010

Was climbing this on sunday (9/26) when the first hanger popped off after my friend fell at the top. Searched for nut but couldn't find it. Hanger at base of route. We had no time to run for a new nut and return to replace, (sorry!), but we had to get on the road.

By Step hen
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 21, 2011

Thanks for replacing that hanger! I must have whipped on it a half dozen times the other day.

By Matt McIntosh
Jul 23, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

The final bolt before the anchor spun off about a week ago. I'd love to see this route rebolted, it's phenomenal.

The bolt just below where I am here is off.
The bolt just below where I am here is off.

By Ben Schmitt
Jul 23, 2013

Matt,

You can run to the Mountain Chalet, grab a stainless steel hanger ($3.50), go to the hardware store, and get a 3/8" 304 stainless nut and washer ($.30). Put the hanger on first, then the washer, then the nut, and tighten down until tight but not ungodly tight. Hopefully the threads are still intact. I usually pay for most of the hardware upgrades in the canyon out of my own pocket, so if you wanted to chip in, you would be helping the community out. I always carry a wrench with me to tighten bolts, especially on popular routes like this one. I'm glad you liked it!

By Matt McIntosh
Aug 1, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Ben, I'd love to contribute to the community, but I am only here on seasonal work and don't have a car. Sorry, brotha. Thanks for all your work in the Canyon, it's sick.