|Morning Glory Wall
A very insecure start with a pretty desperate stab to a good pocket gets things going on this aesthetic arete. Two more crux sections await, and there's a spicy runout before the last bolt once the real business is behind you. Be sure to save some gas for the last move though.
I found the movement to be pretty awkward and it felt very hard for the grade. I had a much easier time with the cruxes on The Quickening (.12d), but if delicate aretes are your thing then this is a good route.
Start on the boulder by stick clipping the first bolt (!), then step off onto the good rail and a few good footholds.
Far right corner of the Churning Buttress on the Morning Glory Wall. Belay from below the boulder.
A stick clip is absolutely required. Nobody in their right mind would try to climb through the lower crux before the first bolt without it pre-clipped.
|By Alex Baker|
Nov 12, 2011
This is an awesome route that I think deserves a lot more attention. I'm really amazed this one doesn't get a ton of traffic. Probably a V4 boulder problem into some sustained and fun arete climbing.
From: Bend, OR
Apr 21, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
an often overlooked route. super aesthetic line with awesomely entertaining moves. packs quite the punch for being so short. Hard to grade for sure, but the crux of this is harder than anything on latest rage. The fall on the runout between the 3rd and 4th bolt is totally clean and fun.