Da Fly 

Originally bolted by Kevin McLaughlin is my guess and I have heard that Kurt Smith supposedly did the FA, but I have also heard that I did the FA - who knows. There used to be 2 or 3 bolts in the lower section but these were stripped along time ago and need to be replaced for a safer start. The upper crux can be climbed by moving slightly right of the bolt line but not all the way over to Glue Slippage; this is more in line with the route then going way to the left. As a side note, the upper crux goes straight up on the crappy hold if you throw a big dyno or are very short but the grade goes up a letter or two.

Just did this thing today. Pretty fun. I felt it was probably a pretty solid 13b def not an A. For the upper crux, I did an all points off dyno from one horizontal to the next. No climbing around the bolts.

I pulled off the big clipping hold over the bulge. Now you have to clip off of the sloper undercling or the sideways dyno hold, and then go from there all the way up to the two finger pockets. It feels quite a bit harder to me.

I got on this route yesterday and felt the bottom bulge is about V8 to a clip off the horrible pinches and crimps over the bulge. If you blow the clip, there is potential to easily deck on the ledge.... The second bulge I messed around with until finally I gave up and headed right and found a sequence a little close to the route to the right. Using that sequence I could easily seeing as 13b with a really scary clip at the crux.