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Da Butts

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buttkicker T 
Dumb-De-Dumb-Dumb T,S 
Ho De Do T 
Igor Unleashed T,S 
Kayla's Way S 
Nazi's Demise T 
Roll Dem Bones T 
Showcase T 
Smegma Burns T 

Da Butts  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: richard berk on Feb 21, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: This is the face of big butte.

Description 

Da Butts is a nice quite (if you ignore the sound of semi-automatic gunfire) place to climb. Big Butt has several quality 2 pitch crack routes from 5.7+ to 5.10b. The main routes are south facing and very climbable on a warm winter day. Little Butt contains a great one pitch 5.11a dihedral. This is a traditional area with almost no bolts.

Getting There 

To reach Da Butts drive 4.3 miles south from Buffalo Creek on Hwy 126 to FR 550. This is the turn off for Wellington Lake and the Castle. Turn right on 550 and drive 0.3 miles - park on the left at the intersection of an old blocked road.

Hike up the blocked road - this can be a little tricky. The road splits near the beginning but rejoins further up. A little less than ten minutes up the road there will be a fork where you bear left. The right fork is the approach for Asshole rocks. Another 5 minutes or so up the road you will reach a large flat area - the old parking area when the road was open. From here leave the road (to the right) and head uphill and angling right to reach the top of the ridge. If all goes well you will top out near the north face of Big Butt. I then go around the right side of the rock (you can go left as well). Scramble down through a slot on the right (west). At this point Little Butt will be in front of you with the Showcase dihedral being very visible. Go down and left to reach the south face of Big Butt. Allow about 30 minutes for the approach or longer if you plan on getting lost. Just remember you want to be on top of the ridge.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.6 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',4],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Da Butts:
Dumb-De-Dumb-Dumb   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
Nazi's Demise   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Kayla's Way   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Showcase   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   
Browse More Classics in Da Butts

Featured Route For Da Butts
Good, fun climb.

Nazi's Demise 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  CO : South Platte : ... : Da Butts
If you come around Big Butt from the west Nazi's Demise and Smegma Burns are on the far right or east side of the south face. Both start in a thin corner.This is a great route. Nazi's Demise follows a very obvious large flake. Place pro high in the starting corner with a descent size sling to prevent rope drag. Follow great jams under the flake left and up until you can reach the top of the flake. Though the jams are a little strenuous, I would have a hard time calling the 1st ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Da Butts
Photos of Da Butts Slideshow Add Photo
Da Butts as seen from Asshole Rock.
Da Butts as seen from Asshole Rock.

Comments on Da Butts Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 3, 2010
By steve dieckhoff
Mar 13, 2003
Da Butts are hard to climb because of the cracks in it. If you wedge yourself between them it will make it a lot better. Good luck.
By shad O'Neel
Aug 2, 2003
You aren't trying to walk all the way up to the highest ridge in view. If you start walking up this, turn around and there is big butt from a similar vantage point as in Hubbel's book. The flat parking area wasn't as obvious to us. We passed it, but still I think we made it in...less than 30 min.
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 6, 2005
To approach just follow the road past the turn off for Ass Hole Rocks. after a small hill you will drop down and be able to see the top of the rocks to your right. Stay low and walk around to the base.
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 6, 2005
There are at least 8 new bomber belay stations and the old runout routes have new bolts to protect. There are also 2 new one pitch sport routes with solid anchors. This is a truly modern and safe area with great easy to moderate climbs. The approach is really easy and only takes 20 min max.
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Nov 6, 2005
I can remember a term we climbers use to use not so long ago, retro bolting. These climbs all had good solid belays and the runouts were typical of the Platte. They are also moderate in grade not needing any extra "safety values". Imagine someone bolting the West Buttress? What a waste of bolts and what a lack of respect for the first ascent parties.
By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Nov 7, 2005
The problem is lack of imagination and courage in most climbers these days. I mean why go somewhere new and find a route of your own that you can try to lead ground up like the the FA parties of these routes originally did, when you can break out the power drill and do extreme makeovers on existing routes on rappel? AC, if I wanted a "Disney" climbing experience I would go to Boulder Canyon or Table Mtn. If you are not up to leading the routes in the Platte then maybe you are not ready to climb there, or maybe you should top rope them until you feel comfortable leading them. Let's not homogenize the climbing experience, and lose all adventure in the process. Keep the South Platte Wild!!!
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 7, 2005
I agree this was not needed at all. But I will say I am not looking for any bolt wars on a beautiful crag. There is no reason to ruin any climbs because the bolts are already there and they are placed well. If you don't like them or don't agree, build the anchor and don't use them.
By Andrew
From: Lakewood
May 15, 2006
Wow, I hadn't been up here in a couple of years... There are anchors everywhere, and every anchor has perfect spots for gear right next to or very close to it. A little disappointing. I'm all for the replacement of existing bolts but this is really excessive and unnecessary.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jul 18, 2008
Does anyone have any pics of the actual formations? I've been to A-hole rock before and am wondering what formation Da Butts actually is.

What is the formation up the hill slightly and across the gully from A-hole rock, kinda domey lots of nice looking cracks if I remember correctly? Son of a hole? what routes exist etc?
By slim
Administrator
Jul 18, 2008
Jason,

The group of rocks that is across the valley and slightly uphill (basically south) is the Twisted Sisters formation. In Hubbel's book, his map shows this formation as being out east beyond Da Butts. This is an error. It is actually almost between Ahole and Da Butts, but slightly south or south west of being directly in line between these 2 formations.

If you are on top of Ahole rock and look towards Twisted Sisters, then start rotating your vision leftward until you see the first substantial looking rock outcrop, it should be Da' Butts (actually it will most likely be the backside of 'showcase'). The routes are on the south face of this rock. It is actually pretty easy to find as it is a prominent little hump on the ridge with some exposed rock. You can descend to the base of it by hiking down around either side. It is a nice little formation with a day or two worth of routes. Good luck and have fun! Also, at the last belay of the 5.7 route, the ledge makes a really cool little pool that is very unique, check it out.
By jeff bryan
From: Cortez, co
Jul 24, 2008
Here is a photo, Jason, I don't follow the road it drops you to low. I just bushwack 1:00 high.
By ssp
Jul 3, 2010
I know these comments above are old, but I am starting a kinda South Platte renaissance for me after being gone from there too many years.
I have to agree with Allen et. al wholeheartedly on the retrobolting issue.
If the route is established, replace bad bolts, rap stations. Yes, if needed. I grew up in the Gunks and love the "adventure " climbing of the Platte.
Hard climbs bring solid leading & route finding skills.
How else are you gonna get better and maybe prep for the big stuff somewhere else? It's what it's all about.
This is the South Platte. Don't change the route qualities or bring it down to an easier level for whatever reason or glorification.
I'll be cking out Da Butts soon to see what's this all about....