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This is a pitch reminiscent of P1/P2 of 'Over The Hill
' in Eldo. A bit of excitement in overhanging flakes leads to good jugs and jams before hitting the real treat- a perfect corner with perfect rock- stemming and edging to the top. Once in the corner, good holds appear after every set of moves of any difficulty, so the climb does not feel sustained- just punk in some pro, make a move, then take a good stance and plunk in some more. The good stances are god-sends, because some of the gear is quite small and requires some effort...but you can load it up!
P1: (Indistinct) Start by ascending up a little slab down and left of a nice perch- fight past a shrub and onto the perch. Stack your rope and rack up here.
P2 (Distinct) go up and left off of the belay perch into some overhanging flakes. The climbing here is moderate, but also delicate. Be aware. Place some OK gear (small cams and small nuts- some in horizontals) and step up and right on stems to REACH for a total jug... then place gear in the thin-hands crack that outlines the small roof just above that point. Get a jam and pull up into the good corner.
Climb the corner (SWEET!) to the top, where up and North there is a rope and ring belay/rap station on a good tree.
If this line did not have the engaging roof down low with the nervous moves requisite, it would be a 4-star pitch. As is, it is still a fine pitch, and certainly the finest at the wall.
This pitch starts up from the ledge above the 2-pins area, perhaps 150 feet to the south. It is the striking and obvious, left-facing, corner system that can be seen above and right from the belay (not the loose broken corner). Think of P1 & P2 of 'Over The Hill
' in Eldo, and the pitch that looks like it is the right one.
A light rack to 2.5" and be sure to include a set of small nuts and RPs.
By Jason Haas
Jul 29, 2008
sad to say, this is not a new FA. The route is called D1. FA: Dennis Smith 1981.