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d. Strictly - Shockley's

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anguish T 
Armadillo's Delight T 
Calisthenic T 
Epiclepsy TR 
Gaston T 
Glypnod T 
Glyptodon T 
Gorilla My Dreams T 
Grim-Ace Face T 
Hi Coroner! T 
High Corner T 
Midnight Cowboy T 
Nemesis T 
Oscar and Charlie T 
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 
Ribs T 
Ruby Saturday Direct T 
Shockley's Ceiling T 
Shockley's Without T 
Simple Ceilings T 
Splashtic T 
Strictly From Nowhere T 
Travels With Charley T 
Vicious Rumors T 

d. Strictly - Shockley's Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.73895, -74.18478 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 18,735
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JSH on Feb 15, 2011


82° | 58°

76° | 60°

74° | 58°

81° | 60°

76° | 61°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Derek underneath the first crux roof on Shockley's...

Along the Cliff 

last area: Frog's Head & The Arch | next area: The Mac Wall


Major Features: The major attractions for this area are the classic-moderate namesake routes: Strictly From Nowhere and Shockley's Ceiling. There are, however, several other truly worthwhile routes in the surrounding area.

The left boundary of this area is the sharp, hanging arete of Ribs, which is just downhill from the Arch. At the right end, the huge corner system of Three Pines marks the boundary for the next section, e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting).

Approach: The Strictly/Shockley approach trail is easily identified at the carriage road by its intersection with the East Trapps Connector trail -- the Stairmaster, as it's lovingly called, that comes up to the carriage road from the Visitor Center parking lot. This trail brings you right to the base of Strictly From Nowhere, and Shockley's Ceiling is just around the arete to the right.

Descents: There are bolted rappel lines over Ribs and over Strictly From Nowhere. One rope will do.

Routes, left-to-right: 

Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs): 5.6, PG
Ribs: 5.4, PG (**)
Calisthenic: 5.7, PG
Gorilla My Dreams: 5.7, PG
Splashtic: 5.10a, PG-R
Gaston: 5.8, PG
Oscar and Charlie: 5.7, PG
Travels With Charley: 5.8-, R
Strictly From Nowhere: 5.7, PG (**)
Epiclepsy: 5.10, X
Shockley's Ceiling: 5.6, G
Mister Transistor: 5.10-, PG
PR: 5.11+, R
Grim-Ace Face: 5.9, PG
No Belle Prize: 5.10, R-X
Hi Coroner!: 5.9, PG
High Corner: 5.5, PG
Glyptomaniac: 5.8+, PG
Glyptodon: 5.8, PG
Nemesis: 5.10-, PG
Midnight Cowboy: 5.9+, R
Glypnod: 5.8, PG
Yesterday's Lemonade: 5.10-, PG-R
Anguish: 5.8, PG
Ruby Saturday: 5.9-, PG
Ruby Saturday Direct: 5.10a
Raspberry Sundae: 5.9+, PG
Simple Ceilings: 5.5, PG

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.7 miles from here

26 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for d. Strictly - Shockley's:
Ribs   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 130'   
High Corner   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 225'   
Shockley's Ceiling   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 275'   
Gorilla My Dreams   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Oscar and Charlie   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Strictly From Nowhere   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   
Gaston   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 240'   
Travels With Charley   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R     Trad, 3 pitches, 240'   
Glypnod   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   
Anguish   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Hi Coroner!   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Grim-Ace Face   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Midnight Cowboy   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Nemesis   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 230'   
Ruby Saturday Direct   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
PR   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R     Trad, 150'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in d. Strictly - Shockley's

Featured Route For d. Strictly - Shockley's
Rock Climbing Photo: 1957 Shockley's Ceiling-climber Marianne Marquardt...

Shockley's Ceiling 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  NY : The Gunks : ... : d. Strictly - Shockley's
This route is considered to be one of the top three 5.6 routes at the Gunks, with High E and Madame G being the other two. The first two pitches can be linked up with Strictly From Nowhere - climb past the first roof of Strictly, and make a traverse right to the belay just below the Shockley's roof. P1 and P2 can easily be combined.The Shockley's access trail is located almost exactly where the East Trapps Connector Trail (the Stairmaster) meets the carriage road. This is ab...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of d. Strictly - Shockley's Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on pitch #2 of Splashtic -
Climber on pitch #2 of Splashtic -
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the Strictly crux.
Approaching the Strictly crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Strictly's approach trail.  It's just past (north ...
BETA PHOTO: Strictly's approach trail. It's just past (north ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jesse at the second roof on Shockley's Ceiling
Jesse at the second roof on Shockley's Ceiling
Rock Climbing Photo: Shockley's approach trail
BETA PHOTO: Shockley's approach trail
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the start of Splashtic, which is a little ...
This is the start of Splashtic, which is a little ...
Rock Climbing Photo: I'm leading Shockley's as the last pitch of a Stri...
I'm leading Shockley's as the last pitch of a Stri...
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 of Strictly
BETA PHOTO: P1 of Strictly
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the "High Corner" Steep,Fun...
Looking down the "High Corner" Steep,Fun...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ribless climbs the left face and arete.  Ribs clim...
BETA PHOTO: Ribless climbs the left face and arete. Ribs clim...

Comments on d. Strictly - Shockley's Add Comment
Show which comments
By micah richard
From: Litchfield, Connecticut
Aug 19, 2014
As of 8-15-14. The right hand bolt on the very top rap anchor is loose/ moves sideways in hole. Maybe just need a wrench to tighten up. Maybe needs to be re drilled.

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