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D is for Dictory 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Darryl Cramer, Greg Olsen, Jeff Walker
Page Views: 456
Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 31, 2008
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Description 

Technically a variation to Fool's Gold, this begins on the start of that route (which is also the start to Heart of the Country). After the first section, clip a bolt and head up and left to a large golden flake. Jamming and Liebacking leads to a leftward traverse (use a long sling on your last cam) to a bolted corner which provides the crux.


Location 

Starts as for Heart of the Country and Fool's Gold via either side of a large flake. A 60m rope descends.


Protection 

Bolts and gear to #3 or 4 Camalot. Long slings are needed to reduce rope drag. The start is either a 5.9 squeeze or an unprotected 5.4 lieback/jam. Bring bigger gear if these options seem intimidating. Fixed anchors, possibly with old webbing.



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By Mike Schmitt
Jul 21, 2013

Now that the start has been cleaned up, this is a fantastic route! The 5.9 starting option can be well protected with one each of #4 and #5 camalots (or avoided by soloing the left side of the flake at 5.4). Thereafter, you don't need anything larger than a #1 camalot. A small nut (e.g. HB #6 offset) can be placed between the two bolts on the upper section. All the bolts and the anchor are solid as of 7/13.

By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Jul 25, 2013

A big thanks to Derek Pearson for cleaning this one up and replacing bolts.

By derekpearson
Jul 26, 2013

Oh I only added one at the top of the flake . I never got around to doing the rest. I think mike did it .

Mike, where the two bolts are that protect the mantle move to get to the crack , I wanted to move that clip up higher so it protects the move better . And did you replace the carabiniers with links at the anchor ? Moving from the top of the flake left I wanted to add a bolt there . And then reposition the next two bolts .

This one of my favorite climbs . Thanks Jon for the props but I'm not responsible for the all work it seems there are a few people that like to help with route clean up.

By Mike Schmitt
Aug 7, 2013

It would be great to reposition the bolts to have one protect the moves leading into the mantle, and also have a high one at the mantle. I actually avoided the mantle move by climbing right, then up, then left. I personally have not replaced any bolts/biners on the route, but all the hardware seemed to be in decent shape.