D is for Dictory
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Technically a variation to Fool's Gold, this begins on the start of that route (which is also the start to Heart of the Country). After the first section, clip a bolt and head up and left to a large golden flake. Jamming and Liebacking leads to a leftward traverse (use a long sling on your last cam) to a bolted corner which provides the crux.
Starts as for Heart of the Country and Fool's Gold via either side of a large flake. A 60m rope descends.
Bolts and gear to #3 or 4 Camalot. Long slings are needed to reduce rope drag. The start is either a 5.9 squeeze or an unprotected 5.4 lieback/jam. Bring bigger gear if these options seem intimidating. Fixed anchors, possibly with old webbing.
|Comments on D is for Dictory
|By Mike Schmitt|
Jul 21, 2013
Now that the start has been cleaned up, this is a fantastic route! The 5.9 starting option can be well protected with one each of #4 and #5 camalots (or avoided by soloing the left side of the flake at 5.4). Thereafter, you don't need anything larger than a #1 camalot. A small nut (e.g. HB #6 offset) can be placed between the two bolts on the upper section. All the bolts and the anchor are solid as of 7/13.
|By Jon Nelson|
Jul 25, 2013
A big thanks to Derek Pearson for cleaning this one up and replacing bolts.
Jul 26, 2013
Oh I only added one at the top of the flake . I never got around to doing the rest. I think mike did it .
Mike, where the two bolts are that protect the mantle move to get to the crack , I wanted to move that clip up higher so it protects the move better . And did you replace the carabiniers with links at the anchor ? Moving from the top of the flake left I wanted to add a bolt there . And then reposition the next two bolts .
This one of my favorite climbs . Thanks Jon for the props but I'm not responsible for the all work it seems there are a few people that like to help with route clean up.
|By Mike Schmitt|
Aug 7, 2013
It would be great to reposition the bolts to have one protect the moves leading into the mantle, and also have a high one at the mantle. I actually avoided the mantle move by climbing right, then up, then left. I personally have not replaced any bolts/biners on the route, but all the hardware seemed to be in decent shape.