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Angora Grotto 
Climax Control 
Cream of the Country 
Cunning Stunt 
D is for Dictory 
Fifth Force 
Fool's Gold 
Frank Presley 
GM Route 
Hairway to Stephen 
Heart of the Country 
Heironymous Bosch 
Just say no to Frank Sinatra 
Kite Flying Blind 
Leave My Face Alone 
Little Jupiter- Short Version 
Mourning Star 
Patrick's Flake 
Phone Calls from the Dead 
Right Ventricle 
Savage Gardens 
SS Ultrabrutal 
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Total Seawash Calypso 
Tunnel Vision 
Whipped Cream Over the Clothesline 

D is for Dictory 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Darryl Cramer, Greg Olsen, Jeff Walker
Page Views: 456
Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 31, 2008
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Technically a variation to Fool's Gold, this begins on the start of that route (which is also the start to Heart of the Country). After the first section, clip a bolt and head up and left to a large golden flake. Jamming and Liebacking leads to a leftward traverse (use a long sling on your last cam) to a bolted corner which provides the crux.


Starts as for Heart of the Country and Fool's Gold via either side of a large flake. A 60m rope descends.


Bolts and gear to #3 or 4 Camalot. Long slings are needed to reduce rope drag. The start is either a 5.9 squeeze or an unprotected 5.4 lieback/jam. Bring bigger gear if these options seem intimidating. Fixed anchors, possibly with old webbing.

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By Mike Schmitt
Jul 21, 2013

Now that the start has been cleaned up, this is a fantastic route! The 5.9 starting option can be well protected with one each of #4 and #5 camalots (or avoided by soloing the left side of the flake at 5.4). Thereafter, you don't need anything larger than a #1 camalot. A small nut (e.g. HB #6 offset) can be placed between the two bolts on the upper section. All the bolts and the anchor are solid as of 7/13.

By Jon Nelson
Jul 25, 2013

A big thanks to Derek Pearson for cleaning this one up and replacing bolts.

By derekpearson
Jul 26, 2013

Oh I only added one at the top of the flake . I never got around to doing the rest. I think mike did it .

Mike, where the two bolts are that protect the mantle move to get to the crack , I wanted to move that clip up higher so it protects the move better . And did you replace the carabiniers with links at the anchor ? Moving from the top of the flake left I wanted to add a bolt there . And then reposition the next two bolts .

This one of my favorite climbs . Thanks Jon for the props but I'm not responsible for the all work it seems there are a few people that like to help with route clean up.

By Mike Schmitt
Aug 7, 2013

It would be great to reposition the bolts to have one protect the moves leading into the mantle, and also have a high one at the mantle. I actually avoided the mantle move by climbing right, then up, then left. I personally have not replaced any bolts/biners on the route, but all the hardware seemed to be in decent shape.