|The Black Hole
Cytogrinder tackles the middle of the Black Hole, diverging just right of Center Route. Begin matched in the large hole at the bottom. Move up into a chipped (?), grinding two finger pocket, and up to a right sloper. Move up and right to one more sloper and pop to the top rail. Breashears' Crack to the right is off for your feet, otherwise it's one of the few open lines at Morrison.
The great thing about this problem is the intricate variety of beta one can find (and needs) to succeed. I count some 19 hand or foot movements the way I do it. Save some gusto for the last move to the lip, which tends to shut people down. Be aware of guys in their 50's and 60's who seemingly use the hardest beta possible and yet warm up on this problem. I'd give it three, but it probably only deserves two.
Just watch the rock on the ground you might hit if you pop off of the last, hardest move. Otherwise no problem.
|By T.J. Satriano|
Dec 6, 2001
From what I have heard the undercling pocket actually fell out once, that whole block ripped out. Someone glued it back in place (now theres that damn little nub of epoxy that eats the side of your finger everytime you use the hold)thus making it look chipped but in actuallity it is not.
Thats only what I have heard though, T.J.
|By Ken Trout|
From: Golden, CO
Dec 21, 2001
About the first ascent. I'd heard that Christian Griffth came up with the both the really cool name and first ascent.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Mar 7, 2002
I don't know about the glued rock thing but sometime around 97' the undercling pocket was enlarged slightly. I was working the route at the time and knew the hold very well, came back a couple days later and it was bigger, other locals agreed.
|By doug rouse|
From: Denver, CO.
Sep 5, 2008
rating: V7 7A+
The pocket was chipped out by some kid...AJ I think his name was...anyway, the pocket used to only accomodate just a half-pad for the the 1st and 2nd fingers...now you can stick a little over a pad in for both fingers. Try it using the potato peeler crimp below it a foot or so...then V8 may be solid....