Cynical Pinnacle is probably the most popular of the crags in the Cathedral Spires of the South Platte. Its prominent south-facing prow attracts the eye for miles. This spire hosts a number of fine routes. The ever popular Center Route gains the greatest lines & waits. However, Wunsch's Dihedral is an excellent sustained line for the intermediate to advanced crack climber. Turf Spreader draws the eye, but requires a pumpy roof to gain entry to its beautiful upper crack. The Prayer Book was once featured in a Jeff Lowe video. Breashear's Crack is a fun test piece for the advanced.
Walk uphill up one of the various of the trails ascending from the North Fork of the South Platte River. You may pass various abandoned relics from a different era along the way.
Double ropes are necessary to rappel down the S face.
12 Total Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Cynical Pinnacle
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cynical Pinnacle:
Class Act 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
R Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Cynical Pinnacle
Center Route 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a CO
: South Platte
: ... : Cynical Pinnacle
This route is three pitches of some of the best crack climbing around. I've heard it called the best 5.9 in the state. The first pitch is a hand/finger crack where you can use a little lie-backing. Belay at slings.The second pitch is the crux, it's a long pitch that leads up a perfect hand crack over a couple little bulges. Every jam is bomber, but, it is pretty sustained. Set a hanging belay once the crack is about to widen up. Note, the slings and the chockstone are disintegrating! A...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for Cynical Pinnacle
Latest Regional Forum Messages
From: Golden, CO
Feb 15, 2009
Just wanted to mention that you can get down from the summit with a 70m rope. From the shoulder on top of Center Route, run across the wall to the top of the handcrack on Turf Spreader (bolt and fixed nut). Then to the next bolted anchor on the slab and so on.
|By Kevin Stricker|
From: Evergreen, CO
Feb 16, 2009
A 60m rope works fine for this, just knot your ends when you penji right to the third pitch anchor of Turf Spreader.
Feb 16, 2009
Haven't ever done it with a 60, but it sounds nervewracking. Probably want to be careful if doing so.
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Feb 16, 2009
A 60m works great for the descent. The last rap will put you on the ledge, which is part of the 4th class approach.
The summit register and pin needs to be replaced. There are only a couple blank pages left.
|By Phil Lauffen|
From: The Bubble
Nov 9, 2010
It is completely possible to rap with one 60m rope off the summit.
1st: Rap from the summit to the shoulder at the top of Center Route.
2nd: Rap off the normal anchors at the top of Center Route, trending climber's right to the top of the 3rd pitch of Turf Spreader. There is one bolt and a slung nest here that you can rap off of. ~90ft!! Tie knots!!!
3rd: Rap off these anchors and trend back left to a double bolt anchor. Big pendulum here!
4th: Rap straight down to a hidden anchor ~60-70 feet below.
5th: Rap straight down to the 4th class ledges ~100ft
I would recommend an autoblock. I did not use an autoblock and resorted to heel-toe cam acrobatics to traverse the large horizontal crack to get to the anchor at the top of turf spreader. ALSO TIE KNOTS!! The end of the rope is not far away on a couple of these raps.
|By Keith Leary|
Aug 5, 2011
Found two ropes hanging at Cynical Pinnacle, if they are yours contact us at email@example.com or firstname.lastname@example.org.
|By John Klooster|
From: Arvada, CO
Aug 5, 2011
Keith, I sent you an email. Thanks
Aug 18, 2012
Great day up on Wunsch's on Thursday, 8/16 although my partner was unable to clean a yellow TCU 1/2 way up the 3rd pitch and somehow a purple BD c3 worked its way off my harness and fell (presumably) onto the 1st pitch ledges.... If anybody finds one/both of these, I would be EXTREMELY grateful. Thanks!
Oct 14, 2013
If you left a black jacket and gloves below the Center Route on the Cynical Pinnacle on the 13th, I have them and will happly return them too you.