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Cyclops Area
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Cyclops 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 2,449
Submitted By: Chris treggE on Apr 30, 2006
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Aug 10, 2013 - look who's living in the eye of Cyc...

Description 

Fun climb that targets the namesake hole up high.

This is the Ro Shampo of Barn Bluff. 5.12a in the guidebook. Originally listed here as 5.11d, it may have become harder over the years like most popular Red Wing routes (see comments below).

It looks like most recent redpointers have given it 5.12a, so I have changed it to reflect that (January 09).

  • RCM&W #8, p.117


Location 

Find the big hole on the cliff wall on the very left-most little bolted area, follow the line of bolts directly below. If I remember right this line shares the anchors with the climb just to the left, Suicide Squeeze. Anybody feel free to correct me if this is wrong, it's been a few years.


Protection 

Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.



Photos of Cyclops Slideshow Add Photo
Matt Johnson on "Cyclops" with a good shot of the Cyclop's eye. <br />Photo by: Stuart Mients
Matt Johnson on "Cyclops" with a good shot of the ...
Sue on Cyclops
Sue on Cyclops
Sue on Cyclops
Sue on Cyclops
In the middle of the crux
In the middle of the crux
The bouldery start
The bouldery start
Kevin flashing Cyclops
Kevin flashing Cyclops
Comments on Cyclops Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Therneau
Nov 15, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

This is a great route, very techy and crimpy. Probably the most overgraded route at redwing that I've done, though. I would say solid 11b.

By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Nov 27, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Agree with Adam on the 11b rating. Ratings are just numbers but they need to relate routes to one another - especially when they are on the same cliff. Giving 12a to a one move wonder Cyclops and 11c to the more difficult Wasp Mentality, which is only 10 yards to the left, is inconsistent.

By Jonathan Williams
From: Palo Alto, CA
Mar 25, 2007
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

I would grade this harder than the 11s on this cliff. The crimps are very small and polished, esp. with humidity. And while the sole hard move on this climb is harder than the 11s, you're right in that it is not at all sustained.

Nonetheless, very fun. 11d in my opinion.

By Jordan Seering
Aug 22, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

My friend and I have always thought that Cyclops is harder than work ethic, so I would say solid 5.12a.

By AntVicino
Dec 2, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

If Suicide Squeeze is 11c than Cyclops has to atleast be 11d. I personally thought Wasp Mentality was a stiff 11c but didnt consider it harder than Cyclops.

By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Dec 14, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I'd like to reiterate how temperature dependent this thing is. On a humid day, when you can still comfortably do routes like suicide squeeze, mississippi burning, work ethic, wasp mentality, etc, this thing is deadly (and not fun)! On all but a nice brisk day, the rounded crimps ooze a peculiar sort of slime, pitching everyone but the climbers who have it the most wired.
I'd say 11c on a perfect day, 12b on a humid day. Considering that the majority of the climbing season is fairly humid in MN, 12a is probably how most people experience it.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Dec 14, 2008

Good point ferrells. When I submitted this route and gave it 11d as opposed to the guidebook 12a, I tried to explain my logic. However, I climbed this route 5 years ago and that's also a lot of time to polish the handholds and make the feet slick. As with all of the Bluff, a certain amount of traffic is good to keep the route clean and choss-free, but a lot of traffic makes the route like glass, ala Looking For Lust which is polished as hell for the first 20 feet. Just looking at what folks who have sent in the past 2 years have rated it, I would guess that perhaps it's gotten harder over the years also. Just a thought. Anyway it's a decent route no matter what you rate it, but I wouldn't doubt the most recent majority's 12a, and have now changed it to reflect that.

By Josh Cox
From: Andover, MN
May 31, 2011

I think 12a is fairly accurate, that reach at the crux is no slouch, and alternate holds for shorter folks don't look much better. Plus, this is the Yosemite rating not French. Here in America we rate the climb by the hardest individual move.

I do agree that the sustained nature of other climbs adds to difficulty of a send.