Cool new route on the right side of the dome. Like all the other routes nearby, a good deal of wandering and traversing is involved. Kind of a shock that the whole route went at such a moderate grade when every other route on that side of the wall is 5.11!
Between Sausalito Archie's Overhang and Third World. The first 2 bolts on Third World are grey camo hangers on white/gold rock and pretty easy to find, and Cyclone starts up the thin crack about 25' left of the first bolt. Bolts on Cyclone are very hard to see from the ground.
Pro to 3.5" including thin nuts, 8 pro bolts over 3 pitches. Two bolt anchors atop each pitch, with mussy hooks at the top of p2 and p3. Two single-rope raps with a 60m reach the deck (watch rope ends!).
|By john durr|
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jul 9, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
We repeated this route end of June 2007 and found it to be furry and in need of traffic. We used a light rack of stoppers to a #3 camelot. #3 camelot between first and second bolts on third pitch. 1st pitch 2 bolts and pin crux 5.10a mantle leaving thin crack. 2nd pitch 5.9 - 2 bolts. 3rd pitch 5.9 nice knobs - 4 bolts.
|By Peter Valchev|
From: Truckee, CA
Jun 14, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun climb, thanks to the first ascentionists! Appreciated the bolts given the friable/dirty rock (and knobs that might break). Pitches 1 and 2 easily link.