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Black Velvet Wall
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American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) 
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Cutting Edge 
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Epinephrine 
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My Little Pony 
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Velvet Tongue, The 
Yellow Brick Road 

Cutting Edge 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Danny Meyers - 1987
Page Views: 2,902
Submitted By: Josh Janes on May 6, 2007
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FA of Cutting Edge

Description 

This route takes an amazing right-trending dike feature across the far left side of the Black Velvet Wall. Approach it by scrambling up along the base of the wall, past the start of Refried Brains and a large boulder and a smaller boulder leaning against the wall. Begin on a two foot high pedestal at the base of a perfect finger crack in a corner.

Climb up via perfect locks to a ledge and no-hands rest. Place some small gear here (a blue and red Alien are perfect), then begin the very long, very pumpy rising hand traverse. Initially climb up to a good stance at a large pod that accepts a #3 Camalot, then continue hand traversing to another slot that accepts bomber finger sized gear, and finally punch it past three widely-spaced bolts to the anchor. Kinda scary with all the heelhooking over your rope and star drive bolts, but a completely unique feature for Red Rocks.


Protection 

Three or four yellow TCU sized pieces and two or three 0.5 Camalots for the initial crack (save one or two for the final gear placement on the traverse). A tiny piece (blue Alien or purple TCU), A #3 Camalot, a 0.5 Camalot, and three draws are all you need for the business. The 3 bolts are old star drives which do not inspire confidence, but they appear to be in good shape.



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By Xavier Wasiak
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 31, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a PG13

Took a good tumbling fall today at about the worst place, just before the second bolt on the traverse. Bolts are fine. ;) Should have read closer, "Well spaced bolts".