|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Dylan Weldin on May 2, 2011|
|Comments on Cuttin' Cards for a Poke||Add Comment|
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By Brady Robinson
Dec 29, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
|Great route! Basically a quick, reachy boulder problem just before the anchor. Look for the twin kneebar bat hang just before the crux and get your camera ready. Tried to pull the mantle at the end past the anchor for extra credit, not enough gas in the tank...|
By Ryan Levihn-Coon
From: Austin, Texas
Mar 13, 2014
Four permadraws in the middle of the roof. Although relatively easy to clip, I would say you can definitely skip clipping the second one on the roof. That said, if the first blew and you don't make the third, it'd be an ugly fall into diving. How many times to bolts blow on the GB, though...? Sometimes, but...? Rope drag can be significant on this route. If your going to send Cutting, or work on it, I would recommend just clipping one of the sport anchors on Diving for Rocks. Super safe fall off this roof, perhaps one of the safest on the GB in my opinion. Could be called Fear of Flying... (:
Yesterday, I sent the route to the last permadraw after only clipping the first in the ceiling. Definitely not recommended, but a hell of a lot of fun when I blew the fourth/last clip and fell about 25 feet. Totally safe fall with a fun swing and no touching the wall. I didn't really not clip another permadraw on purpose, for reasons of little use here, but just thought I'd mention it for fun. Rare to get that much rope out on the lead on the GB, too, so the clean fall is soft and not too hard on the belayer.
Oh, last thought, as I see a lot of folks doing it. Stand close to the wall with a solid stance when belaying diving on the lead, especially if you're on the light side compared to your partner. I've seen more than a couple belayers being 'ripped' into the wall when standing too far back...
And kudos to the bat hang/knee bar... A must do!