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Killer Cave
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Cutthroat 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Paul Piana
Page Views: 73
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 6, 2011
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Beginning up the big corner of Cutthroat.

Description 

What do you do when you've climbed all of the warmups on the Harvest Wall? You climb Cutthroat.

Cutthroat is an extension to Brown Trout, climbing the upper tier to the true lip of the wall. Fans of finger locking will really enjoy this pitch. Unfortunately the rock here is quite poor by Lander standards, so this route should be avoided unless you have the cliff to yourself. Extreme care must be taken if you climb this in one pitch with a 60m or shorter rope!

Begin by climbing the good but greasy Brown Trout to reach a big ledge below the massive dihedral. A few easy moves gaine the dihedral, then stem, jam, and lock with steadily increasing difficulty to a long move where the crack pinches down just before the anchor.


Location 

Climbs the big, overhanging, right-facing dihedral above Brown Trout, on the steep wall left of the Killer Cave.


Protection 

16 lead bolts in all, not including a 2 BA above each pitch. You may want to back clean some of the low bolts on Trout to reduce rope drag.

A 60m rope will only get you down with care and trickery! Otherewise, use a 70m or do a double-lower using the Brown Trout anchor. Cleaning this route is a bitch.



Photos of Cutthroat Slideshow Add Photo
Midway up the corner, nearing the crux.
Midway up the corner, nearing the crux.
Mike cruising through the crux.  Easy for the grade if you know how to fingerlock.
Mike cruising through the crux. Easy for the grad...
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