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Stratocaster Area
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Footloose S 
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Cut Loose 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: J. Smith, N. Nordblom, 1988
Season: any
Page Views: 3,007
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Description 

Great route on the left end of the Stratocaster area.
Climb the open-book left-facing corner and crack (5.10) for perhaps 15 meters to a roof.
Clip bolts while traversing out right on the steep territory and pull the roof (bolts) to finish up to a fixed anchor.
Lowering off may be hard on your rope, as would the second hang-dogging, so belay a solid partner from the anchors.

Location 

Walking South towards the second pullout from Running Man Wall, this will be in the first major roof system encountered. At the left end of the large roof there is a crack in the corner, an open book that is climbable to the bolted roof and a fixed anchor above.

Protection 

A set of cams from fingers to 3" plus a few draws for the bolts. One or two pieces might be best with a longer sling, including the first of the bolts.


Photos of Cut Loose Slideshow Add Photo
Dave Holliday on Cut Loose on Stratocaster Wall
Dave Holliday on Cut Loose on Stratocaster Wall
"But is it steep?" Chris Parks stands on...
"But is it steep?" Chris Parks stands on...
Monica starting up Cut Loose.
Monica starting up Cut Loose.
Working through the crux of Cut Loose....
Working through the crux of Cut Loose....
Dave on the pumpy traverse of Cut Loose, Stratocas...
Dave on the pumpy traverse of Cut Loose, Stratocas...
The corner and right-side roof are the line for 'C...
BETA PHOTO: The corner and right-side roof are the line for 'C...
Climber on Cut Loose. January 16, '11.
Climber on Cut Loose. January 16, '11.

Comments on Cut Loose Add Comment
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By Cultivating Mass
Nov 2, 2011

Great route. Really, really fun. Anchor is solid but not ideal for TRing. Folks who want to save their ropes might consider autoblock belaying the second directly off the anchor. 10d/11a is a pump rating, no real hard moves on this one.
By Andrew Yasso
Mar 2, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I second all of the comments above. Every point is accurate and apt.
By Austin Boren
From: ;as vegas Nevada
Nov 17, 2013

one of may favorite single pitch trad routs in red rocks. pumpy at the top so save some steam.