Cut Loose  5.11a

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.10c/d [details] FA:  J. Smith, N. Nordblom, 1988 Season:  any Submitted By:  Tony B on Apr 7, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Working through the crux of Cut Loose....

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Description 

Great route on the left end of the Stratocaster area.
Climb the open-book left-facing corner and crack (5.10) for perhaps 15 meters to a roof.
Clip bolts while traversing out right on the steep territory and pull the roof (bolts) to finish up to a fixed anchor.
Lowering off may be hard on your rope, as would the second hang-dogging, so belay a solid partner from the anchors.

Location 

Walking South towards the second pullout from Running Man Wall, this will be in the first major roof system encountered. At the left end of the large roof there is a crack in the corner, an open book that is climbable to the bolted roof and a fixed anchor above.

Protection 

A set of cams from fingers to 3" plus a few draws for the bolts. One or two pieces might be best with a longer sling, including the first of the bolts.

Photos of Cut Loose Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: The corner and right-side roof are the line for 'C...	"But is it steep?" Chris Parks stands on the groun...	My "profile." A self-portrait of sorts from the li...
Dave Holliday on Cut Loose on Stratocaster Wall	Dave on the pumpy traverse of Cut Loose, Stratocas...	Monica starting up Cut Loose.
Climber on Cut Loose. January 16, '11.