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Big Horn Wall
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Custer's Last Stand 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
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Page Views: 1,009
Submitted By: LeeAB on Sep 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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The crux move, felt really low percentage to me.

Description 

Longest route at Sitting Bull. The furthest right route on the wall starting from the high point of the slab.

Start by climbing up physical long moves through a steep wall to a double no hands kneebar in the big obvious pod. Clip the 4th bolt from this rest and get ready. The crux is complex and dynamic (and not the sequence pictured) fight through to the last accuracy stab to the 3 finger pocket/jug. Continue up moderate 5.12- climbing past a section of scary choss flakes, it is short. The final little bit to the anchors offers a couple of options both of which could ruin your send.

Protection 

10 bolts and anchors with fixed steep biners.


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