Mountain Project: Climbing Custer State Park

Located in the Black Hills of South Dakota is a climbing area like no other, The Needles. From Sylvan Lake a road called the Needles Highway winds through spectacular and spell binding towers and spires. From this road climbers can access a playground of unparalleled face climbing on ever narrowing spires by way of quartz crystals ranging from tiny to hand sized. The area is steeped in a rich history dating back to Fitz Wiessner's accent of the Totem Pole in 1936. The area was then home to the prolific Herb and Jan Conn, two climbers way ahead of their time, who put up over 200 first ascents from their first visit in 1947 and eventual move to the area in 1949. In the 1960's climbers such as Royal Robins, John Gill, And Henry Barber put up routes that still wow climbers today with their high "pucker factor". Locals such as Paul Muehl John Page, And Bob Archbold made their contributions to the Needle's catalog of bold climbs during the 70's and into the 80's with the likes of Pete Delonney.The Needles has long been know for its purist ethics, which has made for some wild climbs and a Needles' staple, the infamous simul-rap. As Jan Conn said,"You can climb anything in the Needles, if you have the guts."
Custer SP is a world class destination not only for the climbing but also the absolute beauty of the place. Once there, the friendly people of Custer, the interesting scenery, and the relaxed park staff will make it hard to leave.
While buying my $15 7 day pass, I told a ranger why I was there. While we prepared to pull away he smiled and said, "You guys can go anywhere you want!" Yeah, if we have the guts.

Getting There

Once in Custer take Hwy 89/385 east out of town and then left on to Hwy 89 north to the Sylvan Lake entrance to Custer SP. From here is where the Needles Hwy starts and heads south.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Custer State Park:

Moonlight Rib 5.3 R Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Needles Eye : The Fan

Conn Route 5.3 Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet Photographers' Peak Area : Aquarium Rock

Sprire Four 5.4 Trad, 2 pitches, 210 feet Cathedral Spires : Spire Four

Lander Turkey Shoot 5.6 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Outlets : Inner Outlet

International Chimney 5.6 R Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet Cathedral Spires : Spire Three

North Crack 5.6 Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet Cathedral Spires : Balcony Point

Conn Diagonal 5.7 Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet Outlets : Outer Outlet

Classic Crack 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Outlets : Inner Outlet

Eyetooth 5.8 Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet Cathedral Spires : Eyetooth

Needle's Eye 5.8 X Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet Needles Eye : Needle's Eye

Cerberus 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Tenpins/Switchbacks : Tricouni Nail/Cerberus

Threading the Needle 5.8+ Trad Needles Eye : Needle's Eye

God's Own Drunk 5.8+ Trad, 2 pitches, 320 feet Cathedral Spires : Khayyam Spire

Four Little Fishies 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 130 feet Photographers' Peak Area : Aquarium Rock

Lunatic 5.10b Sport, 60 feet Moonlight Ridge : The Galaxy

Hang a Right at Fourth Avenue 5.10b Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet Cathedral Spires : Spire Four

Nantucket Sleighride 5.10 R Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Tenpins/Switchbacks : Moby Dick

Nick of Time 5.10 Trad, 120 feet Outlets : Outer Outlet

Barber Route 5.10 X Trad, 160 feet Tenpins/Switchbacks : Superpin

Cleveland Route 5.10+ X Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Tenpins/Switchbacks : Hairy Pin

Comments on Custer State Park

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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 16, 2011

By Peter Dodge
From: Duluth, MN
Feb 6, 2008

I'm going to be taking a trip to Custer State Park in the summer. I'm looking for a guide book... any suggestions on which one to get and where to get it? I'm looking for a place with some easy routes because I'm going with the family... Which area has the best "easy" routes? Thanks.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Feb 9, 2008

How much money you got? Paul Piana's Touch the Sky, although old, has excellent history and a lot of the classics. It's out of print. Make sure if you buy it that the price includes the maps. Check Amazon or bookfinder.com. Every once in a while you find one for $5-$10 if the seller is unaware. Otherwise... There is a new one by Zach Orenczak extremeangles.com/ but I have no idea how good or accurate it is. Any locals out there?

By John Klooster
From: Arvada, CO
Feb 9, 2008

The new book is not that great. It has quite a bit of misinformation and leaves out a huge number of great routes. The book does not include the outlets or other awesome areas near Sylvan Lake. Another guide book that written by non-locals and supporting a new area above the Needles Eye that was put in against the ethics of the area. Sorry for my rant. The old Dingus McGee and The Last Pioneer Women blue book is a pretty good although small guide, you can probably find it at most local shops.

By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Feb 9, 2008

At this point the content of this website is as helpful as any guidebook currently in print.

By DanD
Feb 23, 2008

Couldn't agree with you more!

By russellHOBART
From: Davidson, NC
Mar 5, 2008

Winter routes?

I am going to be in the area the weekend of March 8-10. What would the good winter/south-facing routes in the Custer and Rushmore area? My primary interest would be in multi-pitch up to 5.9. Thank you very much for whatever help you can provide.

-Russell Hobart

By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Mar 6, 2008

Sorry not much rock will be in shape the weekend of 03/08/08 as we've had a good bit of snow the past couple of days. There just aren't many multi pitch routes here either.

By Scott Bennett
Apr 28, 2009

Hey guys-
I'm looking for a little beta on camping, hopefully of the free variety. What's the scene? Is there any free/very cheap camping within reasonable distance of the state park?
I'm looking at coming here on an extended roadtrip, probably sometime in August. Would it be too hot then? How long could I stay here and be entertained (mostly looking at leading 11-12ish, preferably trad)?
Thanks in advance for the great beta,
-Scott

By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Apr 28, 2009

Scott,

Wrinkled Rock Trailhead which is located at the northwest corner of Mt. Rushmore N.M. is a free designated climbers bivouac zone. You may camp in a tent or van but RVs are not allowed. There is a pit toilet but no water source.

As for pay camp grounds there are multiple options in Custer State Park. Horsetheif Resort and Ft. Welikit are the closest commercial campgrounds to CSP/Needles.

The weather in August can be hot but it is possible to chase the shade or start early to beat the heat. The climbing in the Harney Range lends itself well to face climbing but there are a number of great trad routes. There are over 2000 routes in the Harney Range offering much diversity and multiple different areas. If you need more beta please feel free to contact me at brentk@rap.midco.net

Cheerio,
Brent

By DakotaToni
From: Rapid City
May 3, 2009

Scott,

Check out www.ecoprimalquest.com/wp-primal/pq/. You may want to schedule your trip around this event, or sign up to volunteer.

Toni

By Greg Corn
Feb 22, 2010

Hi,
i have some questions hopefully someone could help with:
Our family is coming down to the area in July 2010 from Canada. I have the new Needles guidebook(which is very funny and unique) but it lacks some routes around Sylvan lake.
Where do I find info on that Conn 5.3 route? or where some of the sport climbs are exactly located, i don't wanna take a wandering mission with kids.
Also where is the bouldering near Sylvan Lake?
What is the best campground in this general area?
I have the Rushmore guide from 1996, i must say it is sensory overload and I can see it being interesting to follow. Sorry just my opinion.
thanks,
Greg

By Jon Marek
Feb 26, 2010

Contrary to popular opinion, I love the new book. All the routes I have personally done from the book were very accurately described (in some cases i felt possibly too much so.) Spire two is a classic 5.3 Conn route but the approach may be a bit much for kids. If you want a great guide to moderate Conn route including those at sylvan, you should get Lindsey Steven's The Adventure Climbs of Herb and Jan Conn. There are lots of camping options. As far as bouldering goes the best info is probably on the site somewhere.

By eric larson
From: aurora, co
May 16, 2011

Might be making my way through here mid July.. Whats the best guide book for the area? Is there a book that might include some rushmore area routes as well?

PM please! thanks

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Custer State Park

Description

Getting There

The Classics