Cuss Terr's Last Stand
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Plenty of thin, technical climbing on this one, with an exciting mantle move at the anchor.
This route is between Coven and The Becky Route, climbing just left of the chimney.
9 bolts with a 2-bolt anchor lower off. If you are 5' tall like the first ascentionist, you'll be psyched to have an extra quickdraw to reach/clip the anchor.
|Comments on Cuss Terr's Last Stand
|By Randy in Ridgecrest|
From: Inyokern, CA
Jul 25, 2011
Have something against short people? This is a good climb but with a flawed ending. If you are 5'11" you have a easy 5.9 mantle to grab the anchor (and you will). If you are 5'7" or below you are in for a really hard and bold time. I'm 5'8" and I thought the move was harder than the 11b "crux" midway up the climb. This wouldn't be that big of a deal except the last bolt protecting that move is well under your feet. This creates an artificial height dependent difficulty (and fall) on a top down climb - kind of an ethical issue, yes? This ending could be fixed for all climbers by extending the anchors another 6 inches or so. Fix the end, then everyone has the same range of options.
I'll do the climb again, it's a nice one, but I'll be taking some kind of extendo draw to fifi the anchor from the positive position tall climbers get to enjoy.
|By Jason Chinchen|
From: Bishop, Califonia
Aug 15, 2011
Ditto. Contrived last move. Not to mention the rope gets stuck behind your foot while trying to mantle if you are not careful. I was able to clip the anchor without grabbing them at 5'7" but it was not fun.
From: Mojave, CA
Aug 15, 2011
I disagree with others. I think the last move makes the climb better. I think the point is to clip the anchor without grabbing the chains. Height is irrelevant. If you can't do this, work on your flexibility. It's not that hard, just my opinion.