Curving Crack 5.8
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Burt Preston near the crux of Curving Crack.
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Description The Curving Crack is a great moderate climb that requires some tricky jamming towards the top of the route. Start out with some blocky moves and move up along the crack, curving towards the right. About half way up the route have the option of using only the crack (harder) or using a shallow dihedral to the right to stem up. The top of the climb holds the crux where you seem to hit a dead-end.
Protection Standard Rack
BETA PHOTO: Curving Crack (8), Deceptive (9), and Out There (1...
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Wes Anderson ascending Curving Crack
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Wes Anderson setting up for a smear on Curving Cra...
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Wes Anderson down low on Curving Crack.
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Adam Therneau leading Curving Crack. August, 2003.
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Chris Keller leading Curving Crack
photo by: Joh...
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Clipping last piece
photo by: John Knoernschild
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Chris Keller topping out on Curving Crack
photo b...
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Ellen on the lead.
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Ellen plugging along.
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Dunbar Carpenter
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Mike Sohasky leading his first 5.8 at DL.
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| Comments on Curving Crack |
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By Ishmail
From: Utah
Sep 7, 2007
| The moves are a bit awkward b/c you have to go deep for good jams, but good fun and a nice lead. A few lost cams – Wise use of runners is a way to keep your gear. |
By BryanR
From: Madison, WI
Oct 26, 2008
| felt like a 5.6 on a top rope but i would imagine it a bit trickier on lead. |
By Ta-Chi Wang
May 24, 2009
| Great route! 5.8 at least by leading. Using layback to pass the top crux makes the route even more enjoyable. |
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 6, 2011
rating: 5.8
| This route is stupid. All the goddamn cams stuck in this stupid route should give you a clue that leading it although it may seem cool is not because you'll lose a cam or 12. I lost a #3 Camalot in it today. This route is stupid, dirty and not fun. Also, this route is stupid. |
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 6, 2011
| Hmmm. So what you are saying is there is a stuck #3 camalot on this route. I think I am free tomorrow afternoon... Thanks Andy! |
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 7, 2011
rating: 5.8
| Chris, you can have it! I worked at it for a bit but gave up thinking that it was a good sacrifice to the climbing gods and hopefully they'll put me on a route that is more fun than this pile. Also, it's a #3 that I bootied 2 years ago so it's come full circle. |
By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Jul 7, 2011
rating: 5.8
| This route does not suck Andy! Blasphemy! |
By Ryan Strong
From: Franklin, Wisconsin
Jul 16, 2011
rating: 5.8
| i dislike the fact this route can be climbed as a face climb...that is weak! this climb is legit, stay off the face and climb the crack! |
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 17, 2011
rating: 5.8
| Face climbs rule all!!!!! |
By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Jun 19, 2012
rating: 5.8
| I know you could climb this on the face, but why would you want to? Those jams are really nice. Great route to teach crack climbing with. |
By Tom Lausch
From: Stoughton, WI
Jun 20, 2012
rating: 5.8
| Good lead. Swallows gear all the way up. Save your larger cams for near the top. Pulling the top 5' as a layback increases the difficulty. Good climb overall. |
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