Curve of Binding Energy 5.12a/b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.12a/b [details] |
| FA: | Chris Alber, 2000 |
| Submitted By: | Elijah Flenner on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Working the overhanging start.
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Description This route climbs just to the right of the left arete on the West Face of Surprising Crag. It starts up a large lieback flake to a crux pulling the lip. The second bolt is hard to clip. After the crux, there is a short hard section to much easier climbing to the anchor, which is up and right. The left anchor is for Pocket Fisherman.
Protection 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
| Comments on Curve of Binding Energy |
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By Anonymous Coward
May 6, 2002
| The guidebook suggestion to place a long draw on the second bolt is helpful. Otherwise, make sure your belayer is right underneath you and paying attention. Too bad I had to climb the miserable route to the left to set it up. |
By S. F. Pitman
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 23, 2009
rating: 5.11d
| I really enjoyed this route. Making that first clip would be much less frightening if you had a bouldering pad. The moves never really seemed to get into the .12 range to me, but I haven't climbed much at the grade in Boulder Canyon, so it could just be a matter of [lack of] perspective. |
By Phil Lauffen
From: Louyuppie
Aug 30, 2011
| Massive, drilled jug holds at the beginning. Way lame, and also completely unnecessary. |
By Elijah Flenner
Feb 4, 2013
| I did not notice the drilled holds at the bottom the many years ago that I first did the route. One is in a natural foot placement, but I don't use the others. I think the one can be avoided with the foot, but it is lame that it exists at all. |
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