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Cracked Wall
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Curley Shuffle 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Erik Eriksson
Page Views: 791
Submitted By: Joe Ramos on Sep 1, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Lars leading Crimpy Curley

Description 

Between Western and The Only Way is Cracked Wall's classic project route for those breaking into the 5.12 scene. It has gotten harder over the years b/c of broken holds. Mostly done on TR it's a scary lead if it's you're first 5.12.


Protection 

3 bolts to Only Way anchors



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By Chris Nosti
Jan 23, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Great route for practicing those 5.12 moves, even if there is only one.........great for top roping and letting the whole group try.

By Chris Bersbach
From: San Luis Obispo, CA
Nov 18, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Local legend is that it's harder than it was originally b/c of a broken hold. I've never seen it any different than its current state, but I've only been playing on it for a few years. I scoped the whole line on TR today, and the section past the crux is stellar, somewhat making up for the crux being right off the deck, not a particularly inspiring move, and pretty painful. The lead would be clean-ish, providing that you have the reach to clip bolt #2 *before* pulling the crux. There's also a pocket that would take a medium nut between bolts #2 and #3 (and if you get there on a clean lead, you'll likely want to take advantage of that chance for pro).

By Aaron InternetHardman Stireman
From: San Luis Obispo, California
Nov 18, 2013

Clip bolt 2 at your waist, after doing the crux. Don't worry, that spinning quarter inch first bolt is bomber, lots of folks have 'tested' it.