This amazing climb has everything! Endurance laybacks, great hands, squeeze chimney to a fist crack finish.
Start in a perfect left facing corner which goes to great hands soon after. After a good rest stance, execute the bulge which eats #2 Camalots. Continue up to a tight flared chimney utilizing a series of good edges out left. Finish with a fist crack to the anchor.
Make sure to save at least one #3 Camalot for the finish.
Cat Wall, immediately left of "King Cat".
Camalots: 2-.75, 2-#1, 4-#2, 4-#3 or 3.5
Chris Trudeau was curious 11.9.08
|By Jeff G.|
From: Fort Collins
Nov 13, 2006
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
This pitch is incredible! One of the best pitches I have done at the creek. I loved getting into the flare, wild and overhanging, but with a perfect #2 Camalot crack size. Getting out of the flare was the Mr. Hyde version of getting into it, with a tight 3.5 Camalot size to big #3 Camalots for full pump factor.
|By Josh Ewing|
From: Bluff, UT
Mar 5, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ditto on the superlatives. A sweet crack that doesn't get done too often. It'll test all your 5.11 crack skills. Don't trust the book's gear suggestion. Starts with #1.5 friend layback that gradually opens to hands. A very physical and overhanging section on perfect hands leads to a tricky move getting into the flare, which takes #3.5 friends in the back. I'd recommend at least 4-5 of this size. I'd also recommend at least (3) #4 friends (old 3.5 camalots).
|By Patrick Pharo|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 26, 2008
Come on man, that Bloom guidebook is the Bible for gear beta. I've never been sandbagged by it. Well....maybe once.
From: Oak Park, CA
Oct 22, 2011
brought up two gray #4 C4's. one could get away with toting only up to #3's, but placements could be more reachy and awkward. the first #4 was helpful for the first 2/3 of the squeeze flake, allowing easier walking up of that instead of having to reach farther in to place #3's. helps too to have the second #4 to place early at the lip of the finishing roof. the squeeze section is actually quite favorable if one contorts well. that entire overhanging hands-to-squeeze-flare-to-fist-roof is just wild and crazy fantastic. get on it, get curious
|By Princess Mia|
Nov 16, 2013
This is one of the best climbs at the creek….period.
All I can say is WOW!!!!!!
|By The Other James|
Nov 21, 2013
I heard this climb used to live in Yosemite, but it got lost one day while wandering off and ended up here in Indian creek.