Curiosity Killed The Cat 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, 6 pitches, 1110 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Steve Rydalch, Paul Ross (var leads) June 13th 2009 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | USBRIT on Jun 16, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: The Route. A)Reptilian Curiosity.5.11R B) Curiosit...
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Description A fine route with great situations. Starts up the long line of left leaning pot holes.
P1)Climb to a bolt at 25' . Continue past a total of six pro bolts to double anchors. 170'5.9.
P2)Climb steeply up three holes then traverse right passed one bolt to another line of pot holes ,follow this line passed one more bolt to block belays on a large ledge.180'5.7+
P3)Drop down onto the white slab ,climb up to the right and follow easy slab to natural anchors below the steep groove system .Natural belay.200'5.4 no pro.
P4)Enter the groove from the right and follow the left exposed edge with difficulty ..Total of three bolts and some cam placements to ledge and natural belay.180'5.9+.
P5)Scramble up right to a smooth v groove up this at its top a bolt (this bolt was placed on the FA of Raptilian Curiosity that comes up from the open groove down to the left.) this protects a 5.8 move over to the ridge on the right.Contine up easy ground to natural belay.200'5.8.
P6)Easy climbing along the left side of the ridge to junction with the top of 1000'of Fun.180'
Descent.:- Five raps down 1000' of Fun
Location Drive to the entrance of Three Finger Canyon.The climb is located on the south side (to the left ) on the "1000' Feet Of Fun" formation. Starts about 150' to the right of the very impressive line of Reptilian Curiosity.
Protection Camalots #.4 #.5 #.75#1 #2 #3 Slings,Quick draws. Two 60m ropes.
Steve starting the first pitch.
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First pitch.
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Steve top of first pitch
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Steve on the belay of pitch two
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Steve topping out pitch two
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Steve starting pitch three
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Pitch three.... very pleasant slab. The steep groo...
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Steve on the crux section of pitch four.
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Looking down to the entrance of Three Finger Canyo...
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On the summit ridge
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At the top..with no sign of cataplexy ....yet
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After a hard day at the office. That cat sure is f...
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Satisfaction brought it back
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BETA PHOTO: The Routes :-A)Reptilian Cruriosity 5.11R.B)Curios...
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Mike Kinney at the 2nd bolt of Pitch 1.
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At the anchors at the end of pitch 1.
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The really fun pitch 3.
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The bottom of pitch 4.
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First part of pitch 5.
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Mike Kinney about to make the 5.8 move on pitch 5.
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Knarly rock near the top of the route.
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Dan Monroe at the start of the crux on P4
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| Comments on Curiosity Killed The Cat |
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By Dan Monroe
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 16, 2010
| Had a blast on this route. I led pitch 4 which was really exciting! Certainly had to keep my head in the game moving up on small feet while looking straight down a ways on my left side. If you like "heady" leads grab this pitch. Pitch three is a real delight with all the features/edges to use. My partner got that one which he earned after leading pitch one. Nice route guys! |
By Alex Wood
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Mar 26, 2012
| Climbed the first pitch of this route after 1000' of fun. We replaced the anchors atop the first pitch on 3-16-2012. Wish we would have know that it kept going! |
By Eric Odenthal
Dec 6, 2012
| climbed the first pitch. fun climbing, bolts are in very odd places, wouldn't help much. 40 foot runout to the anchors from the last bolt... wonder if a bolt fell out... most bolts in the area move. should have used 1/2" x 4 RAWL instead. |
By apross
Dec 6, 2012
| "most bolts in the area move".
How many bolts and on which routes are you talking about? Thats quite the comment as there are ALOT of bolts down there.
What other routes have you done of the nearly 200 routes?. We only hear of people doing the same old half dozen or so time after time in the whole Reef area.
Could you please report in the comment section of all the routes you have noticed loose bolts to help us and future climbers out.
As far as this route and all routes down there the bolt placements are done on the lead. Its all about where you can stop and put one in and sure sometimes they are in odd places. Have not heard of any bolts falling out so im sure it was just runout to the anchor. Will check it out next time im in 3 Finger.
Lastly, we figured 3/8 x 4" would be fine for slab climbing.
It might be a good idea to carry a spanner/metolius nut tool with hex heads and I will note that on the Slabs home page. Thanks for the heads up. |
By USBRIT
Dec 6, 2012
| Only a forty foot runout did not realized we put the bolts in that close.Actually its sad really that many climbers these days are still insisting on doing one pitch climbs..This is a good example of a route that has SIX pitches.Maybe there is an epidemic going around of acrophobia? |
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