||Trad, Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA: ||Matt Lawry, Lee Brinckerhoff, Seth Romo and Curran Lemp|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1|
|Submitted By: ||LeeAB on Jul 16, 2009|
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Head up past the first 2 bolts on the second pitch of Big "T". Continue straight up past another bolt, then move left over some loose rock into a left facing corner (gear). Continue up the corner reaching back right around the arete to clip a bolt. Work up the corner past some hollow flakes and onto the arete. Make tenuous moves around the arete and back onto the face (crux #1). Continue traversing right to a hands off rest. Clip a bolt, then work up into an undercling from where you can clip the 7th bolt. Make a big span up to some edges then tick tack your way right along a serise of edges ending in a difficult move to a 2 finger pocket (crux #2). Rest up and clip the 8th bolt then make tricky, reachy and scrunchy moves up and right to the last bolt then move up and back left to the arete where the climbing eases and a piece or two of gear takes you to the anchors shared with Big "T".
A variation to the second pitch of Big "T". Climb the first pitch of Big "T" or make the first 3 raps in to the ledge at the top of the first pitch. To get off either make 2 raps with a 70m rope or climb the 3rd and 4th pitches of Big "T" to the top of the wall.
9 bolts and some small to medium gear (fingers and thin hands) to a bolted anchor.
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2009
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Here's some background info on the name. In January 2009 Seth Romo and I put in the first five bolts on this line. Due to car situations, we told our wives to meet us on the backside of the sandias at 6ish. The iced over La Luz trail got some evening sun that melted the top layer- making it slick as snot. I think it took us 1 1/2 hours to hike out. We were two hours late. Hence Curfew. Sorry Tricia and August!
P.S. - Thanks to Lance Hadfield for pointing out the line to me.