Cure For The Common Crimp
|1,934 page views|
Lane getting into the tough stuff.
About 40 feet right of Da Fly on the next buttress with an overhanging bulge at mid height, this route starts on red rock with an obvious, chalked jug at the first bolt. It follows a medium-sized, left-facing dihedral to a hands off ledge (5.11) then fires up well protected blocky stone to the overhang. The crux (V6 or 7) involves pinches, two crimps and a sloper, all a wonderful break from the technical tweakiness that usually defines Shelf Road. Pull the crux and enjoy beautiful 5.10 climbing to the chains (even the resemblence of a tufa at the top!) all in all fun movement with a hard hitting crux and no hands rests in between.
This is 40 feet right of Da Fly (5.13a) on the next buttress with a small, overhanging roof at mid-height.
Bring 14 quickdraws and a boulderer's mindset.
|Photos of Cure For The Common Crimp Slideshow
Mirthe getting her 1st 13.
Mirthe on the different start.
|Comments on Cure For The Common Crimp
|By Will Anglin|
From: Sykesville, MD
Nov 17, 2008
Be careful of loose rock, I pulled off a small crimp gaston and some foot holds broke.
|By Rick Thompson|
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Apr 8, 2011
Nice to see "The Cure" getting some attention. No surprise about the loose rock, I probably cleaned a few hundred pounds of loose crap off it when first equipping it in 2002. Many thanks to John Musso & Chris Lesher for all the help putting it together, bolting, belaying, cleaning, yada yada. 12d/13a probably a more apt concensus, but splitting hairs, no? Ah, the subjectivity of it all. :~)
Curious how folks are taking on the super cool crack that follows the crux?
FA: Rick Thompson, 2003.
Mar 11, 2012
I was confused which way to go around crux. After a "hands off ledge", there is a split just below the bulge. I went to the rIght side with 3-4 fixed draws around the crux (felt more direct to the top). When I looked at the left there is a bolted line. Is this route supposed to go left?
|By Ben Schmitt|
Mar 16, 2012
The new guidebook gives misdirection as to what Cure is supposed to do. The right route via the fixed draws is an open 5.14 project I bolted and have been working on for a while, whereas Cure goes left from the ledge. How'd the project feel? The draws were intended to get potential suitors on the route, as hanging them mid crux is extremely difficult. They are not perma draws (or abandoned booty), just to be used until the route is finished then I will take them down.
Mar 21, 2012
Thanks for the info! I shut down at two decent undercling holds (it is glued and probably right before crux section begins). I was trying to figure out how to use upper left, crimpy sidepull and right-side, small slot. I felt I need to get strong crimp for sure. Guess that is what the hard climbing in Shelf requires. I am new to Shelf Road, and wanted to see how I feel on 5.13ish climb there. Good luck with the project!
Feb 6, 2013
Hey Ben. Project felt do-able, and I know the beta but must get stronger go string that monstrosity of a boulder problem together! I was wondering two things...1) is the new direct start to Cure easier or harder than the dihedral start, because the dihedral start is fun but does not pump me or tire me, so I was wondering if he other start was harder or easier? 2) could you add a description and route name in MP for the project. A lot of people are getting confused, and I myself thought I was getting crushes by Cure for two weekends until I was realizing that the boulder problem on the project was harder than the classic V8 Turning Point! But great line and nice find! Will def. go!