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Cumbria 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 830', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Paul Ross, Chris Bonington, Lance Bateman (Var Leads) Oct. 1st 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 579
Submitted By: USBRIT on Oct 5, 2009

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Description 

The Route was named after the part of Britain where Chris still lives and Paul used to! Starts just right of the slot canyon and left of "Mellow Yellow"

P1). 4th/5th class 150' up broken rock to below a groove that is up to the right.From here the pitches and rock is of very good quality.
P2).Move out left and follow an easy slab that curves up to the right to a short wall over this to a good thread (in place) below a block. 160' '5.6R
P3).Up nice slab in right corner then to a groove (5.8 with pro) on the left go to left edge and double anchors.200 5.8
P4)Up the edge passed a couple of thin moves then follow the edge to double anchors. 170'5.7R
P5) About a 100'of 5.6R slab to a short steep right facing corner with pro then move over to the left edge and double anchors. 200'5.9
P6).Easy slab for a 100' to a large ledge system .Junction with the top of Mellow Yellow.

Descent>. Rap Anchors of M-Y are found about 30' down at the top of a groove (Mellow Y)Rap this pitch (200') to a big ledge.Here one will see another set of rap anchors that descend MY.A more direct rap can be made down a route just north of M-Y .Scramble 30'along the ledge to the north then down to the right will be seen rap anchors at the top of the long groove of the route "Lance-A-Lot" From here a 200' rap to a small ledge.then another rap to low angled slabs.These are 4th classed 400' first up to the right then left down a groove and continue to ground.(Future plan is to install other rap anchors to the gully that will avoid the slab scramble)

Location 

Park about A 1/4 mile from entrance to Three Finger Canyon. The Triple Buttress area is the steeper line of rock straight opposite ..see photos.

Protection 

Cams.From 1/4" to #4 Friend. one or two medium stoppers.Slings .Two 60m ropes


Photos of Cumbria Slideshow Add Photo
Chris on the crux section of P5
Chris on the crux section of P5
Paul on second pitch
Paul on second pitch
Berghaus Rules.Behind Chris the climb Knights Erra...
Berghaus Rules.Behind Chris the climb Knights Erra...
Chris on Pitch 2
Chris on Pitch 2
Chris and the terriers relaxing after the climb. T...
Chris and the terriers relaxing after the climb. T...
Chris topping out on P2
Chris topping out on P2
The Triple Buttress at dawn... yes this is the tru...
The Triple Buttress at dawn... yes this is the tru...
Lance on Pitch three
Lance on Pitch three
The Routes :-A) Cumbria 5.9 B)Mellow Yellow 5.8.C)...
BETA PHOTO: The Routes :-A) Cumbria 5.9 B)Mellow Yellow 5.8.C)...
Chris belaying Lance at the top of P3
Chris belaying Lance at the top of P3
Chris and Lance at the rappel
Chris and Lance at the rappel
Chris on the crux of P3
Chris on the crux of P3
Camp site... photo Chris Bonington
Camp site... photo Chris Bonington
Chris and Lance on the belay of P4
Chris and Lance on the belay of P4
Dawn with Ansel !
Dawn with Ansel !
Chris coming up P4
Chris coming up P4
There is a register in a cairn down to the  righ o...
There is a register in a cairn down to the righ o...
Lance on P5 just below the short 5.9 section
Lance on P5 just below the short 5.9 section
This is part of the county of  Cumbria,in northern...
This is part of the county of Cumbria,in northern...

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