Cul-de-Sac 

Instead of wimping out when you get to the ledge after the roof by heading up and right along the path of least resistance, try climbing the face directly adjacent to the corner (to your left). It's very slopey, but there's a sequence that makes it about 5.8+. I won't give it away, you'll have to figure it out. It involves a semi-dyno.

Loved the route good rating.

Good route, scary lead. Despite the casual appearance of the corner, the holds and the pro do not offer themselves up easily. Sloping quartzite, shitty pro--the makings of a memorable lead experience. Though, don't you feel like a total hero when you latch that jug above the roof, with the rope hanging in a lazy, unbroken arc down to the fixed nut below the crux? Actually, it kind of makes you forget all the grovelling, shaking, and oaths to never do this again. On second thought: great route, awesome lead.

what about cul-de-sac exit out the roofs, rich didnt you lead this?

Yes Steve I did lead Cul de sac exit .Dave G. did the first lead and I did the first clean lead.A hand placed long dong works great at the start of the crux and there is a assortment of other gear that when all tied together should hold a fall.bring hbs,rps and tcus. I also remember trying to lead the regular route when I was 17 (27) years. I fell twice at the crux and almost hit the ground. I was wondering what to do after pulling the rope and Scott stewart came along climbed up took out my last piece,which was the only one left. He then came down gave me the nut and took the beener and walked away without a word. Gee thanks Scott......

rich i remember the story about scott smith and the biner.nice lead on the direct,is it run out above roof?

Seth Dyer and I both lead Cul-de-Sac exit back in 97. I remember a grey Metolious tricam with only two lobes fully cammed at the roof. Two purple metolious stuffed into the flaring finger slot just above, and I think a #2 BD wire in the middle of the crux. That was spooky fishing that thing in back hand with the left hand on the sidepull/ undercling. The wire is as bomber as the cable its on. I don't think there was much else for gear at the top. I don't think my lead was a pretty sight to watch, I remember looking down, trying not to puke, and seeing Paul and Sandy walking away with concerned looks upon there faces... Oh well, I have always been crazy. Peace-

This was my first 5.8 at the Park back in 87, and it's still my favorite.

If you are tall enough, you can do the crux move statically ... if only I could remember how! Paste your feet high and stem.

Gear at the crux is solid, its just somewhere around your shins or ankles. The gear on the upper wall is more tenuous - scramble a couple of moves up the gully, the go back out left. For *that* this route deserves a PG/R rating.

"R" rated I would say with committing mantle move with so-so small gear at your feet. A fall would be a slammer in to the dihedral.