Locate the 3 foot roof on moldy buttress, Cul-de-Sac follows the inside corner to the roof exiting to the right and up. The Crux is definitely at the roof, hike your feet up and commit to the move!
Small wires up to the roof and mid sized nuts/hexes after the roof
BETA PHOTO: Mother of Pearl (114), Cul-De-Sac (115), Fibula Cr...
Dave, workin' the crux
BETA PHOTO: As seen from the bottom.
Alex headed up to clean the anchor at the end of t...
|By Tom Anderson-Brown|
From: Madison, WI
Oct 12, 2002
Instead of wimping out when you get to the ledge after the roof by heading up and right along the path of least resistance, try climbing the face directly adjacent to the corner (to your left). It's very slopey, but there's a sequence that makes it about 5.8+. I won't give it away, you'll have to figure it out. It involves a semi-dyno.
|By Jay Knower|
From: Campton, NH
Mar 21, 2003
Good route, scary lead. Despite the casual appearance of the corner, the holds and the pro do not offer themselves up easily. Sloping quartzite, shitty pro--the makings of a memorable lead experience. Though, don't you feel like a total hero when you latch that jug above the roof, with the rope hanging in a lazy, unbroken arc down to the fixed nut below the crux? Actually, it kind of makes you forget all the grovelling, shaking, and oaths to never do this again. On second thought: great route, awesome lead.
|By Paul Huebner|
From: Portage, WI
Aug 18, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
This was my first 5.8 at the Park back in 87, and it's still my favorite.
|By Doug Hemken|
Apr 13, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13
If you are tall enough, you can do the crux move statically ... if only I could remember how! Paste your feet high and stem.
Gear at the crux is solid, its just somewhere around your shins or ankles. The gear on the upper wall is more tenuous - scramble a couple of moves up the gully, the go back out left. For *that* this route deserves a PG/R rating.
May 6, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R
"R" rated I would say with committing mantle move with so-so small gear at your feet. A fall would be a slammer in to the dihedral.
|By Shane Wallace|
18 hours ago
Commit to the move is right! I tried easing up to it and would lose balance. Just go for it!