Starts just right of Animal Magnetism. The pitch has two distinct sections: a desperate bulge from bolts 2-4 and a slab/face/arete the rest of the way. The first section seems a lot harder than most (all?) Boulder Canyon 12a's I have done -- might be rated 12a in Eldo. The rest of the climb is a long stretch of countiously engaging (5.10 to easy 5.11) climbing on the slab/face with a couple of moves back and forth across the arete. The upper part is quite good on its own, worth pulling on the 3rd and 4th bolts to get to (as I did). Note for those allergic to pegmatite, the upper section contains some sections thereof. The route leans to the right, so the lower off ends up well uphill of the start, at the start of Cujo Tranquilizer, alleviating any worries about descending with a 60 meter rope. The anchors are shared with Cujo Traquilizer pitch 1, creating top rope possiblities.
17-18 bolts + 2 anchors.
|By Joe Collins|
Jul 11, 2002
A cool variation to this pulls the 12a crux then traverses left into Animal Magnetism... I think the guide calls in Cujo Magnetism or something like that. The crux is very technical and thin but didn't feel any harder than 12a to me.
|By Richard M. Wright|
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 9, 2003
Seemed hard for 12a in the opening. Good hands in the lay-away start, but marginal smears for the feet. After the fourth clip things settle down to thin, thoughtful climbing in a laboratory safe environment. The best feature is probably its length. A 60 meter cord just drops you back to the base.
Aug 16, 2004
I thought this climb was very high quality. The start is tough, thin, and the feet are tricky. There was at least one 11+ section on the slab, unless I missed something. This climb requires a lot of draws, 19 including two for the anchor. A 70 M rope is helpful if you don't have someone to follow the route to clean the draws.
|By Mark Ferguson|
May 22, 2008
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
A Boulder Canyon route that actually feels hard for the grade. I think the crux start is very difficult and hard for the onsight. Great climb, one of the best 12-s in B Canyon.
|By Elijah Flenner|
Oct 4, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b
Maybe it was the specific day I was on this route, but I found it much harder than 12a compared to the other 12a's and 12b's in the area. Harder than Animal Riots Activist; harder than the second pitch of Global Gorilla, little harder than Piles of Trials, much harder than Days of Future Passed (which might not be 12a). Maybe I'll change my mind on the grade after a second go, but for now I sticking with harder than 12a, and a hard 12b.
|By Curt MacNeill|
From: Boulder, CO
May 9, 2013
Not 12a, but call it whatever you want. The first crux was a burly little section. Great route though with lots of varied climbing. I'm impressed. I overlooked this route every time I went to the upper tier but was surprised that it climbed as good as all the 4 star classics around it. Do it!