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Rincon - L of Center Route
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aerial Bondage 
Aerial Book 
Arete Bandit 
Bachar Yer Aryan 
Bat's Ass Dihedral 
Climb Of The Century 
Cuban Bluegrass 
Emerald City 
Evictor, The 
Faulty Logic 
Final Eviction (aka Freeline), The 
Fraid Line 
Kangaroo Tail 
Leisure Time Arete 
Must'a Been High 
Over and Out 
Over the Hill 
Scenic Route 
Surf's Up 
Ventura Highway 

Cuban Bluegrass 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Steve Levin
Page Views: 689
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 23, 2002
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


This is an obscure, but elegant and high-value route up on the upper tier of Rincon, in the same alcove as Bat's Ass Crack, etc. You can either climb a route to get here, or scramble in on the descent ledges leading from the north.

Cuban Bluegrass is on the right (south) side of the alcove, in a right-facing corner with an incipient seam, just around the corner and right Kangaroo (?) Crack. A mossy, easier-looking left-facing corner is just right again, at the very right margin of the alcove.

Boulder up to a fingerlock and place some smallish TCUs. Stretch up and place RPs in the seam, then puzzle through bouldery, sustained, tenuous moves to reach a jug break. 5.10+ climbing up the corner above leads to sling anchors on a tree.

This route could very well merit an S/VS or VS rating -- if the RPs blow -- or if you fall a bit higher than you really should going to the horizontal. While the landing is pretty good, it would still be a 15 to 20-foot grounder.


Small TCU's, a hand-sized piece (1"-2"), RPs, stoppers

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