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 ADVANCED
Rincon - L of Center Route
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aerial Bondage T,S 
Aerial Book T,TR 
Aerohead T,S 
Aeronaut T,S 
Aerospace T,S 
Arete Bandit T 
Bachar Yer Aryan T 
Bat's Ass Dihedral T,TR 
Brevitata T 
Climb Of The Century T 
Cuban Bluegrass T 
Emerald City T 
Evictor, The T 
Faulty Logic T,S 
Final Eviction (aka Freeline), The T 
Fraid Line T 
Kaisho T,TR 
Kangaroo Tail T 
Leisure Time Arete TR 
Must'a Been High T 
N.I.C T 
Over and Out T 
Over the Hill T 
Scenic Route T 
Surf's Up T,S 
Trident T 
Ventura Highway T 
Wendego T 
Windy T 

Cuban Bluegrass 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Steve Levin
Page Views: 712
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 23, 2002

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is an obscure, but elegant and high-value route up on the upper tier of Rincon, in the same alcove as Bat's Ass Crack, etc. You can either climb a route to get here, or scramble in on the descent ledges leading from the north.

Cuban Bluegrass is on the right (south) side of the alcove, in a right-facing corner with an incipient seam, just around the corner and right Kangaroo (?) Crack. A mossy, easier-looking left-facing corner is just right again, at the very right margin of the alcove.

Boulder up to a fingerlock and place some smallish TCUs. Stretch up and place RPs in the seam, then puzzle through bouldery, sustained, tenuous moves to reach a jug break. 5.10+ climbing up the corner above leads to sling anchors on a tree.

This route could very well merit an S/VS or VS rating -- if the RPs blow -- or if you fall a bit higher than you really should going to the horizontal. While the landing is pretty good, it would still be a 15 to 20-foot grounder.


Protection 

Small TCU's, a hand-sized piece (1"-2"), RPs, stoppers



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