Cuban Bluegrass
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British R
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Steve Levin |
Page Views: | 1,952 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Orphaned User on Nov 22, 2002 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is an obscure, but elegant and high-value route up on the upper tier of Rincon, in the same alcove as Bat's Ass Crack, etc. You can either climb a route to get here, or scramble in on the descent ledges leading from the north.
Cuban Bluegrass is on the right (south) side of the alcove, in a right-facing corner with an incipient seam, just around the corner and right Kangaroo (?) Crack. A mossy, easier-looking left-facing corner is just right again, at the very right margin of the alcove.
Boulder up to a fingerlock and place some smallish TCUs. Stretch up and place RPs in the seam, then puzzle through bouldery, sustained, tenuous moves to reach a jug break. 5.10+ climbing up the corner above leads to sling anchors on a tree.
This route could very well merit an S/VS or VS rating -- if the RPs blow -- or if you fall a bit higher than you really should going to the horizontal. While the landing is pretty good, it would still be a 15 to 20-foot grounder.
Cuban Bluegrass is on the right (south) side of the alcove, in a right-facing corner with an incipient seam, just around the corner and right Kangaroo (?) Crack. A mossy, easier-looking left-facing corner is just right again, at the very right margin of the alcove.
Boulder up to a fingerlock and place some smallish TCUs. Stretch up and place RPs in the seam, then puzzle through bouldery, sustained, tenuous moves to reach a jug break. 5.10+ climbing up the corner above leads to sling anchors on a tree.
This route could very well merit an S/VS or VS rating -- if the RPs blow -- or if you fall a bit higher than you really should going to the horizontal. While the landing is pretty good, it would still be a 15 to 20-foot grounder.
Photos
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