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North and West Faces
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Better than Bitter 
Broken Thumb 
cTr 
Diminishing Returns 
Falling Apart at the Seams 
Flamin' Freddie 
Guilt Trip 
Hollow Man 
Nuthin' Tuff 
On a Whim 
Pins and Knickers 
Tuff Enough 
Tuff'n Up 
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting 
Wrecking Ball 

cTr 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Lance Linscott, Kris Pietryga, Dustin Hulet, James Garrett, 19 June 2007
New Route: Yes
Season: Anytime
Page Views: 3,307
Submitted By: James Garrett on Jun 19, 2007
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Lance approaching the crux

Description 

cTr - (Choose To Rage) This is a pretty homogeneous sport climb added to the fray about 200 feet up the hillside from Winky and Waxman Go Bolting. Start up some tricky finesse moves to the first roof and fire this to bigger more positive holds on the overhanging face to a bomber block (point of rage?). Some small bands along the way provide pleasant rests from this pumpfest. It stays in your face until the welcome reprieve at the chains.

One of new climber Dustin's first climbs outside the gym...might he become a lifer?

Although extensive route cleaning and preparation was done, this should improve with age. Until then, consider wearing a helmet and lunge/cut loose with caution.


Location 

cTr is located on the west face of Challenge Buttress about 20 feet to the left (north) of Falling Apart At The Seams and up the scree field above Winky...this climb ends at the top of the cliff.


Protection 

QDs for 13 bolts to the two-bolt belay chains. A belay bolt to the right on a little ledge has also been installed for added safety. Good protection.



Photos of cTr Slideshow Add Photo
Stan is choosing to rage...
Stan is choosing to rage...
Seeking tiny edges getting the burn
Seeking tiny edges getting the burn
cTr and Lance's first rage and FA
cTr and Lance's first rage and FA
Lance firing the first RP
Lance firing the first RP
Hackattack Choosing to Rage
Hackattack Choosing to Rage
Comments on cTr Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 16, 2013
By LML4X4
Jun 20, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Great climb with very positive holds all the way to the top. This is one of the longer sport climbs I have done in the canyon(13 bolts). I would give cTr 3 stars if you compare it to Better Than Bitter.

By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 13, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I definitely like 'BTB' better (say that 4X fast 4X4) but...
this is certainly a welcome addition to the area and will be on my circuit from now on. Good idea to wear a helmet, belay off to the side, and treat most holds with caution. The route itself doesn't really have any super memorable moves (close at the second roof, and another at the top) but it sure is continuous, sorta long, steep, and huge!!!

Once a bit cleaner, I think this is the best candidate for "first .10 lead" because it is so positive and well-protected even though I agree with the .10b rating...

We need more like this!

By Allen Sanderson
From: Oootah
Aug 3, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Yesterday, I pulled off two loose softball size rocks on this about 1/3 the way up. One left a nice positive sloper hold. Might be a few more lurkers on this. Helmets for climber and belayer are recommended as well as belaying out of the debris zone.

By Allen Sanderson
From: Oootah
Aug 22, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I have not been on it since too scared :D. The grade is still within the 10b range with some more traffic any more lurkers will come off. I think it is the case of some people going one way and some going another so everyone finds a surprise now and then.

By Allen Sanderson
From: Oootah
Jun 10, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I think I am going to call this Chose To Remove. Haha. I was up there over the weekend and saw another luker come off. This time though it instead of making a hold, one was removed. I saw the potential for a couple more.

By Texaswall
From: The Woodlands, TX
May 8, 2009

Been wanting to get on this for a year now and had not despite numerous outings to Challenge Buttress. Led the route on May 4 and rock quality was a big issue. I pulled a baseball sized rock off at about the 3rd bolt and threw a split-finger fastball with it away from my partner. This "hold" should in no way affect the climb. My partner, on the other hand, also led the route and pulled off what he described as one of the larger and more route-defining holds/rails around the penultimate bolt. I watched it fly through the air, bounce once and divide, and then head directly for me. I dodged it, almost falling down in the process. I really see little reason to repeat this route given the rock quality and route quality (somewhat discontinuous).

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 22, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

The rock quality seems to increase as you make your way up this line. As long as you take a good look at what you're aiming to grab and give it a test pull before yarding on it, nothing will come off. The only loose hold I grabbed won't come out, it just rotates around (if you want to know what loose is, check out the line to the right, Falling Apart at the Seams)
Great moves on the upper clean "headwall", too bad it's not longer.

What's up with the glue-in bolt sitting in the dihedral at the right of the start? Practice? Ugly as hell!

By James Garrett
Jun 23, 2009

Belay bolt...so much safer to belay from there completely protected from all the reported rock fall. Glad it is cleaning up. I like this route alot and don't feel it to be particularly loose?

By mattjbudd
From: West Valley, UT
Apr 22, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I lead this route last weekend and it felt super solid. I didn't grab any holds that felt loose. Nothing came off, and most importantly it was a blast. Great addition to the area. As for the rating, the moves feel pretty easy, but since it is sustained and LONG, I think 5.10b is about right. I love this route, and will start letting everyone know about it. Thanks for the addition!

By Alan Avedovech
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 14, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

First time on this route and it felt super solid. I wore a helmet just in case, but like a said i did not find anything to be loose at all! Well protected and would be a great lead for early 5.10 climbers!

By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 2, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Feels solid this month. 4 of us climbed it with nothing loose. Be careful not to Z-clip (plenty of close bolts). Good warm up, plenty fun though nothing tricky, but --- is this really 5.10? Good for the aspiring "5.10" leader to help with confidence.

By Tim Golden
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 16, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Did this route last night and thought it was great. Didn't find any loose holds, but my partner pulled out one little piece in a crack that was coming loose. Definitely wear helmets to be safe. There are no extremely tricky parts, but it's long, consistent, and over hanging almost the whole way which made my arms pretty pumped about half way up. I had to take a couple little rests on the ledges. It didn't help that we didn't get to warm up on anything shorter since it was so crowded. Overall a great route that I want to do again.

By Peter Hayes
Jul 21, 2012

I was just at this route with my buddy Phil. I did not do the route, but he thought it was quality for the grade, thinking it to be .10a/b. We did not know what the route was, so he just racked up all the draws he had and took off on an adventure.
He had just done "Falling Apart at the Seams" (.11b, r/x) which is a dangerous route, so the "over-bolted" nature of this route was quite comforting. He thought that there were 2 or 3 bolts too many on "cTr", but if one chooses not to clip them, then skip them.
I added the "r/x" to Falling Apart at the Seams", and I elaborate on that in the comments for that route.
cTr is a terrific route, and quite long for the area. You can do it with 10 draws by back cleaning, or just skip some of the bolts if you do not have 15 draws...don't forget the two you need for the chains. We fashioned draws out of stoppers to extend the rack, and these worked well. The route is in full sun after noon in the summer, tucked in a cool grotto 200 feet above "Hollow Man". So, if the lower area is full- which is rather common- then head up the extra 5 minutes to this place. It has a terrific, flat belay, with lots of room. Hint: stay close to the cliff all the way to hike up to the area, because the talus to the right is very loose. With some rope trickery and well placed directionals, it may be possible to rig a TR on "Falling Apart at the Seams" by traversing in from the top of "cTr". This would open up two TR's for the rope-gun to set for the crew. Just beware of the weird nature of the "anchor" on "FAatS", because rope drag at the lip is a real threat if one does not extend the TR point.
"CTR", Ha, I always thought that meant "Climb the Rock" when I saw it embossed on the rings of local kids.

By oliver
Jul 26, 2012

Route seems to be in pretty good shape. Some loose rock in the opening section but other then that it was an awesome route.

By cdec
From: SLC and Moab, ut
Sep 20, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

For the grade and style one of the best in the Canyon. Has cleaned up really well. Nothing left but solid rock and good times.

By Jordy
May 16, 2013

Wow, plenty of bolts ar there for your clipping pleasure! Fun climb with mostly easy moves. Seems a touch soft for 10b...but maybe the length helps it to get the grade.