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BETA PHOTO: Above the First Crux. Photo By Jeff Laina.
A bouldery start over a small roof starts things off, after which a delicate mantle and a few balancy moves bring one within reach of the first bolt (a spotter is helpful, but the best advice is to not fall). A series of polished slabby moves follow with one commiting move after the last bolt. Gear belay under the summit block and rap or downclimb (easy 5th class).
With it's ease of access and engaging moves this route has seen the passage of many a climber, and the polished holds are a testament to that. Short but fun and perhaps best done on a cooler day or in the shade. Two stars out of five.
This climb is located on the right side of the large flake which leans against the main formation and sits almost directly behind a parking "corral".
4 bolts (3/8"), pro to 3" (for anchors)
BETA PHOTO: C.S. Special Climbs the right side.
R.M.L. climbs ...
BETA PHOTO: Steve Cox, nearing the last bolt. In this case, th...
Dec 18, 2003
Do it every year, but I always have to rethink the crux.
|By Bo Johnston|
Dec 15, 2004
Great route. I can't say it's 10c because I'm 6'3" but I can see were someone shorter (like my partner 5' 10") might for the start boulder move. The rest of the route is just fun with logical moves. A little run at the end I recall. The start involves undercling to left side cling and left foot up on the left rounded (polished corner). Yee Ha!
|By vincent L.|
Feb 19, 2005
Awesome route! Spicy start with a well protected crux. Bring a crash pad if you think you're going to crash at the start. The runout after the last bolt is not bad as long as you can climb 5.7 ...
Sep 8, 2006
Not a give away 10b!
|By Gregg Olson|
Oct 4, 2008
This was my first climb in J Tree. I tore my tips up working on the opening moves. Then I saw the stem off to the right, made the move and cruised the rest of it. Super fun climb and well protected with bolts.
|By Pat C|
Mar 23, 2009
my first 5.10. Randy Vogel's purple guide from the 80's said it was 10a. I found this climb extremely frightening, I'm going to do it again.
-- Went back and climbed this one again. This thing is so greased, and it's got that really tricky start. I found it to be more intense than sweatband in indian cove (rated 10c, more likely 10b). I don't know what to grade this one, but it's slippery alright.
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Jan 22, 2010
As a frame of reference, it is harder than Papa Woolsey. Probably by a letter grade. The start looks improbable but is fun and easy. I found the crux to be a slabby bulge up higher.
|By Adam Stackhouse|
May 24, 2012
And the C.S. stands for what?
|By Jeff Laina|
From: Southern, New Mexico
May 30, 2012
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 31, 2012
It's chicken shit special......that's why the C.S.....didn't want to offend anyone...at least that's the story I heard...