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CS Concerto... Chuck Pratt's response to Royal's Nutcracker Suite.
The first pitch heads up a 3" crack. An alternate start is a slab past a bolt 20 feet right of the crack, which is the first pitch of Fecophilia. Wander right and then back left up the slab, connecting thin vertical cracks. Pull up onto the ledge and belay in a good tree. 5.8, 120'.
Second pitch heads straight up the crack above the tree. The crack waves and flares and culminates with a mantle to pull up onto the giant ledge. 5.8, 100'
At the back of the ledge and 10 feet left is the third pitch, the best on the route. The pitch heads up a very appealing streak of intrusive rock with big features and intermittent cracks. Follow this up and a little right, through some mild runouts on sub crux climbing. Belay in a shallow bowl. 5.8, 120'
There are a couple cracks that head up from the pod, they are both fairly easy (5.5 or easier.) Top out 100' above on another huge ledge.
From the top of the route you can walk off left or continue up After 6 if you would like to top out the Manure Pile Buttress on 200' of 5.3.
40' left of Nutcracker.
Gear to 3"
By Jeff Scheuerell
Nov 18, 2011
All of my guide books, including the old green Roper, show the first pitch as the crack.
From: Oakland CA
Nov 18, 2011
Cool, thanks. The supertopo has them backwards.