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 ADVANCED
Manure Pile Buttress (aka Ranger Rock)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
After Seven T 
After Six T 
C.S. Concerto T 
Commissioner Buttress T 
Fecophilia T 
Haley's Comet T 
Jump for Joy T,TR 
Just Do-do It T 
Nutcracker T 
Nutcracker 5.9 Start Variation T 
Renus Wrinkle T 

C.S. Concerto 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Chuck Pratt
Page Views: 1,194
Submitted By: caughtinside on Nov 18, 2011

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Description 

CS Concerto... Chuck Pratt's response to Royal's Nutcracker Suite.

The first pitch heads up a 3" crack. An alternate start is a slab past a bolt 20 feet right of the crack, which is the first pitch of Fecophilia. Wander right and then back left up the slab, connecting thin vertical cracks. Pull up onto the ledge and belay in a good tree. 5.8, 120'.

Second pitch heads straight up the crack above the tree. The crack waves and flares and culminates with a mantle to pull up onto the giant ledge. 5.8, 100'

At the back of the ledge and 10 feet left is the third pitch, the best on the route. The pitch heads up a very appealing streak of intrusive rock with big features and intermittent cracks. Follow this up and a little right, through some mild runouts on sub crux climbing. Belay in a shallow bowl. 5.8, 120'

There are a couple cracks that head up from the pod, they are both fairly easy (5.5 or easier.) Top out 100' above on another huge ledge.

From the top of the route you can walk off left or continue up After 6 if you would like to top out the Manure Pile Buttress on 200' of 5.3.

Location 

40' left of Nutcracker.

Protection 

Gear to 3"


Comments on C.S. Concerto Add Comment
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By Jeff Scheuerell
Nov 18, 2011

All of my guide books, including the old green Roper, show the first pitch as the crack.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 18, 2011

Cool, thanks. The supertopo has them backwards.