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The Great Ledges
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Crystalline Fracture 
Noah's Ark 

Crystalline Fracture 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ryan Barber, Mike C. Robinson, 11/5/11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 270
Submitted By: Ryan Barber on Nov 6, 2011
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Ryan Barber on the FFA

Description 

In-between Noah's Ark and the large headwall, look for an obvious finger crack which moves up and right for about 25 feet. Follow the crack up and over a small roof (5.7). Once you gain the slab above, work your way up and slightly left to the large tree at the base of a gully and set your anchor.

The name Crystalline Fracture is given because during the first ascent, a protruding piece of quartz slightly bigger than a golf ball was used as a foothold, but after weighting it, broke off causing the climber to lose his footing and bang his shin hard into the rock. Fortunately, he did not take a fall because the finger crack sports a nice grip.


Protection 

Small to medium nuts and cams. Once you get over the roof, the climb is runout to the anchor (5.4) giving it an R rating. There is potentially pro along the way if you want to spend some time searching, but the rock around it is not necessarily strong enough to hold a fall. Anchor onto big tree below the gully.



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