Just left of the Great Escape (two routes left of Morning Stretch) is Crystal. I like Crystal better than Great Escape, just because it climbs out into the middle of the big blankish looking face, and it is more aesthetic. Great Escape hugs a little closer to the dihedral and doesn't look quite as nice. However, both routes climb very similarly, with thin moves on bullet-hard compact limestone.
By Mike Anderson From: Dayton, OH Mar 21, 2005 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
I think this is a really great route. The start is a bit chossy (what Shelf route isn't?), but then the rock becomes stellar. The moves are continuous, and there are some really nice pockets and edges. This is a great warmup for harder stuff, or a good project for those at their limit.
This climb became my favorite warmup for the harder 12s due to its consistent nature on all decent holds. Nothing too sharp either. Last I remember the bolts were angle iron and a little sketchy (had a friend take some big whips on them one time though, so they seem to be okay), but everything else about this climb is sweet.
As good as they come for mid-.11 Shelf routes, highly recommended! As such, this thing should be at the top of the list of routes that need a bolting upgrade. If/when I get my hands on some ASCA hardware, I'll be glad to put in some work & get 'er done.